With the words “lean right back” ringing in my ears, Murphy, a towering 24 year old camel gracelessly lifts his backside in the air before unfurling his front legs and standing up. The cameleers assure us that several of their guests have speared head-first into the ochre red dirt – not a good start to a chilly pre-dawn ritual. Each rising camel is greeted with oohs and aahs as each with an...

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