Growing up, the Sunday before St. Patrick’s Day meant donning Irish knit sweaters, kid-sized scally caps with a shamrock applique and then piling into the family car to head to South Boston, my father’s ol’ neighborhood, for the annual parade. We would arrive hours before the festivities started and make our way to the Peterson’s or the Golden’s or to the Shea’s, whoever was getting started early. The smell of food was always overwhelming, crock pots filling whatever counter space was available, while the dulcet tones of the Clancy Brothers, Tommy Makem, The Chieftains or The Dubliners filled the air.
Twenty-five plus years later these memories are still fresh in my mind - the parade was as much a part of our lives as a birthday or an anniversary. But, things change - people move, families change - and after a while we stopped going. Maybe someday I’ll go back with my new family so the kids can experience this celebration of their ancestry and how important the Irish are to South Boston. If you are so inclined, this year’s parade is Sunday, March 15 and starts at 1:00 p.m. at the Broadway MBTA (’T') stop and wraps up at Andrew Square. And contrary to what Darren wrote, New York’s parade is not actually the oldest - the first parade in the country was held in Boston in 1737. New York’s, however, has been held for more consecutive years, so I guess they got that going for them.
If you do find yourself in Boston for a spell, there’s really no shortage of places to stay or places to eat. I could start listing them out for you or even start naming some of my favorites, but we’d be here for days and you would never read anything I posted ever again, so I won’t do that to you or to me. But since we are near that holidays of holidays, St. Patrick’s Day, I will share with you some of my favorite Irish pubs in Boston and the surrounding environs. Now, I know a list like this is wholly subjective - there may be some pubs people agree with, there will be some pubs people will disagree with and there will be those who say, “Well, what about…?” and all I can say is, “Okay.” I’m sure there will be something on or off this list that even my own wife will ask what it was that I was thinking. With all those caveats, I give you my favorite Irish pubs in Boston and elsewhere.
The Black Rose (Roisin Dubh), Boston, MA
The Black Rose (Roisin Dubh), 160 State Street, Boston: From the pictures of Michael Collins, Eamonn deValera and other heroes of the Easter Rising hanging on the wall to the menu filled with such favorites as Shepherd’s Pie, Bangers and Mash and the old standby Fish and Chips, The Black Rose epitomizes the Irish pub experience in Boston. Located in the historic Faneuil Hall/Quincy Market area of Boston, The Black Rose offers up a diverse crowd of locals and tourists, all of whom are equally interested in a good time. In addition to properly poured pints (a proper pour takes 60-90 seconds and should never be rushed - this ain’t Bud you’re drinking), patrons are treated to live Irish music seven nights a week.
Mr. Dooley's, Boston, MA
Mr. Dooley’s, 77 Broad Street (Financial District), Boston: I’m partial to pubs in which I can actually carry on a conversation with whomever I’m sharing a pint with. Mr. Dooley’s is one of those pubs. Dooley’s is not like one of the “chain” Irish pubs that pop up in city after city. It has a comfortable, lived-in vibe common with the traditional pubs and patrons are often greeted by a bartender with a lilting brogue. The menu is filled with fish and chips and Irish sausages and bacon, but Mr. Dooley’s is also known for its authentic Irish breakfast - the cure for what ails ya. Friday through Sunday there is entertainment and patrons shouldn’t be surprised by an impromptu “Sessuin” - an informal gathering of musicians who come together to play some music, have a pint or two and socialize.
J.J. Foley's, Boston, MA
J.J. Foley’s, 117 East Berkeley Street, Boston: At one time, it was not for the faint of heart. This was always our “everything else is closing, will Jerry let us in?” late night bar. But, it’s been a while since I’ve been back here. I hear they recently renovated the location - new tin ceiling, newly shellacked wood paneling covering the walls - and are now offering a substantial pub menu. J.J’s, as it’s affectionately known, has been in opertion since 1909 and you can always count on the bartenders to be wearing white shirts and black ties, a nice throwback to a bygone era. And don’t be surprised by who you might run into while you’re there - I recall one night trading pints with a former mayor and his security detail.
Bad Abbot’s, 1546 Hancock Street, Quincy: Ah, my home away from home. Nine
Bad Abbot's, Quincy, MA
times out of 10, if we’re back in the Boston area for a weekend, a visit is not complete without a stop in at Abbot’s. I come here primarily for the Guinness as they have some of the smoothest and best poured pints around. My wife comes not only for the pints, but also for the curry chips (fries with a curry dipping sauce). The menu is filled with typical pub fare and patrons can enjoy live entertainment every weekend, as well as a traditional pub quiz during the week. Abbot’s also shows English Premier League games live as well as Scottish League, particularly when Celtic is playing. Spectators can enjoy a solid Irish breakfast during games. And for those fans of good hot fries and other fried foods, rumor has it that Abbot’s will be opening up a “chipper” soon.
Murphy's Twin Shamrocks, Quincy, MA
Murphy’s Twin Shamrocks, 425 Hancock Street, Quincy: One thing about Quincy, I think they have more Irish pubs and bars than Manhattan has Starbucks. Yeah, I know that’s impossible, but you get my point. The Murphy twins (get it? Twin Shamrocks) opened this neighborhood favorite in a former Chinese restaurant about 10 years ago. When it first opened it was dark and somewhat seedy, a perfectly fine mix, with great bartenders many of whom came over from the much lamented Tin Whistle. When I found myself back in the area a few months back, I was pleasantly surprised by the changes I encountered - it was much brighter, each booth had a small flat screen TV, new plasmas around the bar and on the walls - it had a more refined feel. The menu was still the same pub fare and the pints of Guinness were still refreshing. All in all, I’m never disappointed when I pop in for a pint.
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Irish Pubs of Boston (and Elsewhere): Five Favorites