I want to tell you a secret. Something known only to some very intrepid souls and the locals. Want to know the best time to visit Martha’s Vineyard? No, not during the summer, though that is an ideal time. No, the best time to visit The Vineyard is now. In the winter. Trust me.

My wife and I first spent a few days there following a New Year’s Eve wedding in 1998. A weekend away for just the two of us was certainly intriguing (and welcome after the holidays), but admittedly, I was a bit skeptical of her choice for a long-weekend getaway destination. The Vineyard in January doesn’t bring to mind sitting poolside while cabana boys bring fruity drinks with tiny umbrellas (um…I mean lots of beers) nor does it conjure up sitting fireside after several hours of packed powder. To my less knowledgeable self, the Vineyard in January is biting winds and subzero wind chill; it’s empty storefronts and shuttered restaurants. It’s a ghost town. Well, it is and it isn’t.

The Black Dog Tavern, Vineyard Haven

Most people know about The Vineyard as a summer playground for the rich and famous. US Weekly and People have no shortage of stars to photograph in Edgartown or Oak Bluffs from June to September. They might even find some stragglers in October. But come winter, they are off to warmer climes leaving the island to the locals and those with a fondness for quiet. During our first visit, we stayed at Martha’s Place, a B&B in Vineyard Haven, a quaint place on Main Street and only steps from downtown. Most of the shops were still open and are exclusive to The Vineyard – Riley’s Reads, Menemsha Blues, CB Stark, among others – and the owners are always willing to engage in some small talk (or full-blown conversations) while you browse. Need a bite to eat or a good cup of coffee? MV Bagel Authority is the island’s premiere bagel shop with locations in Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. For something a little more substantial, hit the world-famous The Black Dog Tavern down by the harbor. If you decide to check out more of island – up-Island if you will (and you will want to) – there is The Black Dog Cafe outside of Vineyard Haven on the way to Chillmark or Aquinnah. You should know, however, that if you want alcoholic beverages with any of your meals, you will probably have to bring your own as Vineyard Haven is a dry town.

Lifeguard Tower in the snow - www.mvol.com

To the east, and about a 10-minute drive along Beach Road from Vineyard Haven lies historical Oak Bluffs. During the summer months, Oak Bluffs is a bustling and thriving oceanfront resort. It is also home to many historical and nationally recognized landmarks: the Flying Horses Carousel , the oldest operating platform carousel in America; The Campground, once home to the Methodist summer camp famous for its open-air revivals, now renowned for the Gingerbread-style cottages surrounding the Tabernacle and the yearly Grand Illumination in August. But like any  summer resort, the winter months see marked decline in visitors – the perfect chance to get a feel for what’s around and decide if you want to brave the summer throngs. There’s no shortage of places to stay in Oak Bluffs – it is a resort town after all – the trick is finding those that are open year-round if you want to set up camp in town. Dining is less of a challenge. Want a good, diner-style breakfast? Linda Jean’s on Circuit Avenue is just the ticket – even in the winter months nearly every seat is taken. For something a little lighter, across the street you’ll find Mocha Mott’s for a great cup of coffee and some pastries. If you’re interested in pub grub, Seasons is a decent bet, just expect a slower pace than usual. If you’re like me, you enjoy a good craft beer and will not be disappointed by the offerings at Offshore Ale Company on Kennbec Avenue, open seven days a week year-round. The IPA is a great choice. For nightlife, check out The Lampost and Rare Duck or go a little more low-key at one of the island’s movie theaters.

Our favorite town, and the one that caused me to fall in love with The Vineyard, is Edgartown. This tony

Edgartown Lighthouse in the snow - www.mvol.com

harbor town was once one of the primary ports of the whaling industry and where the captains of those vessels built the grand mansions that line Water Street on both sides. Again, there are plenty of places to stay in Edgartown – from the historic Harbor View Hotel to the modest conveniences of the Clarion Carriage House Inn – and many of them are open year-round and offer some great (read: affordable), off-season rates. As in Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven, many shops are still open, but may be on winter hours, typically several hours on the weekends. For your dining pleasure, Edgartown is loaded with gret places to eat. David Ryan’s and News from America Pub are two great choices and you won’t be disappointed. But the one that captured our hearts is The Wharf Pub on Main Street. During our first trip, we popped in for lunch and ended up staying for several hours, striking up conversations with the bartenders (locals) and other patrons like us enjoying the Island’s solitude in January. Since this initial visit, our trips to the Vineyard aren’t complete without a significant stay in this great pub.

To get to The Vineyard, take the ferry operated by the Steamship Authority in Wood’s Hole. If you plan on taking your car over (I recommend that during the winter months), you should plan on making reservations in advance as standby travel is not guaranteed. Enjoy yourself. Oh, and dress warmly. Trust me.

The Manor at Glen Laurel Inn

There are times when a weekend getaway is in order. You just need a bit of pampering, a respite from the hectic daily grind, an escape from reality. An escape from the kids! The Glen Laurel Inn in Rockbridge, Ohio offers the penultimate romantic weekend getaway. Nestled well off the beaten path in the woods of Hocking Hills in Licking County The Glen Laurel Inn sits on a 140 acre estate among wooded trails, gorges and scenic waterfalls which only enhance the allure of this peaceful Scottish Country Inn.

The Inn offers a variety of accommodations from the well apportioned rooms and suites at the Manor or Carriage House to the private crofts (Scottish for small house) or cottages. And while each might be appealing in it’s own particular way, I highly recommend the cottages. Highly.

MacLeod Cottage

The cottages have a nice living area where you can wile away the hours nestled on the couch staring into the huge stone fireplace or out of the large window and into the woods and gorge below. Don’t worry, if you’re not good at staring at fires or trees there’s an entertainment center where you can play movies or listen to your favorite music.

There are huge sleigh beds in the bedrooms and and enormous bathroom with a shower for two. The real draw here, though, is that through the double French doors in the bedroom leading to the back deck is your very own private hot tub. From there you can enjoy the soothing warmth of the water as you relax taking in the constantly changing nature with which you are surrounded. Nothing quite compares.

The Camusfearna Gorge at Glen Laurel

The Glen Laurel Inn lists numerous on-site and local activities:

• Hiking in the Camusfearna Gorge. Over two miles of the most beautiful and breathtaking nature trails imaginable.
• Over 50 species of birds have been identified at Glen Laurel including a pair of Bald Eagles
• The seclusion of Glen Laurel makes perfect opportunity for star gazing. Clear skies abound.
• There is a fire pit available to guests for evening bonfires.
• Golf is available at the nearby Brass Ring Golf Club
• Horseback riding at the local Spotted Horse Ranch
• Antique shopping in nearby Logan
• Canoeing at Lake Logan
• Local workshops (photography, kayaking, riding)

Please visit the website at the Inn for more detailed information on these activities. Since our last visit, they have added a day spa.

For the record, I have participated in none of the extra activities listed above. That’s ZERO. Glen Laurel is so absolutely comfortable and inviting that there is, in my humble opinion, no reason to leave the cottage. Except….(There’s always an except!)

Nothing Says Dinnertime Like Bagpipes!

Dinner. While the cottages are equipped with a small kitchenette and you could easily survive your romantic getaway on wine, cheese, frosted flakes, finger sandwiches and vitamin B (all readily available at the local grocery) you will definitely want to partake in the Inn’s famous five or seven course dinner.

The Edinburgh Dining Room at Glen Laurel

Guests are called to dinner by the distinctive sounds of bagpipes wafting through the early evening air. That waft is soon followed by the aroma of what can only be described as gourmet goodness. It’s a dinner that will not be soon forgotten, served intimately in the manor dining hall. There’s candlelight, music, poetry and visits with the chef. (Jackets are required on Saturday evenings.)

The Glen Laurel Inn has been labeled “the premier romantic getaway in the Midwest.” It’s a moniker well deserved. I suppose the only drawback is that at some point, you have to return to reality and back to your own home.

The Glen Laurel Inn has very specific policies regarding pets and children, please be sure to contact them prior to arriving with either. All photos courtesy of the Glen Laurel Inn.

The city and the Golden Gate.

Early last year my wife and I took a trip to Larkspur, CA.

Now I will admit, Larkspur was not necessarily top on our list of “Places We’d Like to Visit Before We Die,” but at the time we were in possession of a $150 Marriott Hotels gift card and were in search of a local destination at which to cash it in. Much to my surprise, Marriott doesn’t have much to offer that’s off the beaten path, so in our quest for “exotic locales,” Larkspur won out over Walnut Creek and San Jose.

That being said, Larkspur is a very quaint little town, close to Mt. Tamalpais and only a stone’s throw from Sausalito, just over the Golden Gate Bridge as you leave San Francisco. The Larkspur Marriott, located at 2500 Larkspur Landing Circle, is but a short walk from the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. The hotel itself is your standard Marriott fare; far from horrible but certainly nothing special either. What did we care, we were only planning to sleep there.

Most of our day was spent testing out my wife’s new Digital Rebel.  And what better place to snap some beautiful test photos than the Marin Headlands.

Situated just North of San Francisco, high above the Golden Gate, the Headlands offer some of the most spectacular views of the world’s most famous suspension bridge, and the jewel that is San Francisco nestled below.  We spent several hours in the Headlands and watched the skies change from the crystal blue you see above, to the foggy white for which San Francisco is famous. It’s amazing how quickly the fog rolls in when you’re on the ocean, high above the city; how it spills over the hillsides, filling the valleys like mustard gas, only without all the uncomfortable blistering and accompanying screams of agony.

With the fog came the cold, the temperatures dropping from a comfortable 70 to somewhere closer to 55. At that point we decided to drive down to Sausalito, where we enjoyed some hot clam chowder and a cocktail at the now defunct Cat ‘n Fiddle Public House. Believe me, if you’ve never been you aren’t missing a thing. Seriously, where else can you pay nearly $30 for soup and a cocktail?

In search of a restaurant where our money would stretch a little further, we ended up at the Marin Brewing Company. This was much more our style; reasonably priced pub grub and beer, or at least what passes for reasonable in Marin County.

We spent the latter part of the evening enjoying the Marriott’s  hot tub, that is until the chiropractor from Nevada, his wife and three kids showed up. If I may interject a slight pet peeve here, I’m of the opinion that hot tubs are for the relaxation of slightly inebriated adults, not lap pools for youngsters.

In any event, after a good night’s sleep it was once again time to eat. We queued up for the Marriott’s plentiful breakfast buffet. As we ate, I watched an elderly gentleman rise from his chair to muck around with his wallet or handkerchief or some such thing that elderly folks are forever mucking with, and I noticed that his chair was in danger of tipping backwards. Timing my rescue with my third trip through the buffet line, I caught his chair just as balance lost its battle with gravity, righted it and moved on, all in one fluid movement. Batman could have done no better.

My wife nixed my suggestion to swing by San Quentin Village on our way home. Perhaps an adventure for another day.

Marin Headlands

Hawk Hill Tunnel

The author and the photographer

Marin Headlands

Photos: Lisa Romano

My husband has been traveling for work the last three weeks and will be gone for one more. So, writing about romantic vacations in Santa Fe this weekend felt like a cruel joke. But, even while feeling sorry for myself, I couldn’t help getting excited about this post!

I think that Santa Fe is one of the most romantic places in the United States to spend a vacation. It has all the right elements…it is mysterious, beautiful and earthy. It is a city of great restaurants, shopping, cultural attractions, outdoor activities and scenic drives.

Visit during any season and you will not be disappointed. In the winter the ground is covered in snow and the air smells of sweet pinon and smoke. In spring and summer you have green mountains, clear sunny days and cool nights. In fall, you have blooming Sage, vibrant Chimisa and intense yellow Aspen. This georgous year-round backdrop is the perfect setting for a romantic getaway.

There are so many wonderful things to do, restaurants to dine in and hotels to stay at that I couldn’t possibly whittle it down into this space. So, to make it more enjoyable for us all…I have put together a description of one perfect day.

Here it is:

Romantic hotels: I would want to stay at the very expensive Inn of the Anasazi (this is my ideal romantic day, remember-so money is irrelevent!). Second choice would be one of the distinctive rooms at the St. Francis hotel. In small touches and design, both places evoke Santa Fe’s rich history and colorful Southwestern culture.

Romantic (and tasty) restaurants: I don’t really think of breakfast as being romantic, unless it is served in bed. So, let’s just talk about some good restaurants that serve breakfast. I would want to spend the morning eating fluffy eggs and freshly baked pastries at CloudCliff Bakery. It is a nice spot to linger and read the paper. Pasqual’s is excellent as well with communal tables and a spectacularly unique and tasty menu. Get there early as the secret has been out for quite some time. Dinner would be at Geronimo’s or Santa Cafe. Both are very expensive, have exquisitely prepared food and are fabulously atmospheric. They exemplify the gourmet Southwestern cuisine that Santa Fe is famous for.

Romantic activities: There are two main things I would have to do (in addition to visiting museums and driving the many scenic drives heading out in any direction from town). First, would be to walk down Canyon Road. One of the oldest streets in Santa Fe, it is a haven for galleries, artist shops, and good restaurants. You could spend an entire day wandering down it’s cobblestone streets, looking at local paintings and sculpture.

This is sure to tire your feet and make you ready for some R&R…which bring me to my second “must do”. Ten Thousand Waves is a full service spa modeled after a Japanese Onsen. It is located on the scenic road up to Santa Fe’s ski mountain. They have a wide menu of treatments, from blissful massages, private hot tubs, meditation rooms and much more. I’m partial to their salt scrub massage and their fresh cucumber water that is available all over the property.

S0, break into that savings account, book a flight and ‘get your romance on’ in Santa Fe. After all, you only live once!

Thanks to Mark Coggins for the Santa Fe picture!