Vacations Blog

Easy riding on the Hiawatha Bike Trail

First thing they do each morning is clear out the bears.

Because you really don’t want to meet a bear while you’re biking through one of the dark mountain tunnels of the Hiawatha Bike Trail in North Idaho.

The Hiawatha is the ultimate family bike trail in the United States.  According to me, anyway.  The trail winds along 17 miles of abandoned railbed, through nine tunnels, across seven high trestles, and among some of the most stunning mountain scenery you can imagine.

One of many tunnels on the Hiawatha Bike Trail

You start your adventure about two miles off Interstate 90, right across the Idaho-Montana border.  After parking your car and paying a trail use fee, you’re immediately faced with a black hole in the side of the mountain.  It’s the 1.7-mile Taft Tunnel, the longest and darkest of the many tunnels you’ll experience on the trail.

This is where you’d better have some good flashlights strapped to your bike.  We rode through the Taft Tunnel with one good light and several weak ones.  My son took the strong light and the lead, and we followed a tiny flashing red light clipped to his backpack.  It didn’t take long for me to start hallucinating as I followed that bouncing little light into the pitch black.  In the cool, quiet center of the mountain, you start to feel like you’re cycling off into space.  And you miss the spot, about halfway through, when you cross from Montana into Idaho.

Eventually, as the tunnel curves, you see a little white dot of sunlight on the other side, and you exit the tunnel to find a lovely little waterfall and creek.  Here’s where the scenery begins as you start your descent of 1000 feet over the course of 15 more miles on a compact dirt and gravel trail.  With a 2% grade, it’s an easy ride for everyone, regardless of experience and skill.  My son easily did it at the age of 7.

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Hiking Mineral Ridge

Spring is about to be sprung on us here in the Pacific Northwest. The one thing I look forward to most with the passing of winter is packing my kids into the car and finding a mountain trail somewhere nearby so I can stretch out my legs and shake off the cabin fever.

I’m familiar with most of the easy trails in Eastern Washington, North Idaho, and Western Montana. By “easy” I mean, simple day hikes that won’t end with one or another child having a meltdown, pleading with me to “never do this again.” No, we’ve been on those hikes and I learned my lesson.

Today I’m going to highlight eight fun family hiking trails in North Idaho, close to the towns of Coeur d’Alene and Post Falls, Idaho, and not too far from the metropolis of Spokane, Washington. If you’re in the area for a vacation, or just passing through on I-90, any of these treks will make for a fun, and relatively short, way to experience the wonder and wilderness of Idaho’s great outdoors.

Tubbs Hill Picnic Spot

Tubbs Hill in Coeur d’Alene – It’s the crown jewel of Coeur d’Alene, situated right next to downtown. We’ve made this into two separate hikes; one from the 3rd Street parking lot out to the halfway point and back, and a second hike from the east side parking lot on 10th St. to the halfway point and back. Either one, or all the way around, is mostly level, with awesome views of the lake and hundreds of perfect picnic spots.  You can walk to Tubbs Hill from any downtown hotel or bed and breakfast.

Q’emiln Park in Post Falls – The hiking trails start right at the parking lot near the west entrance to the park. There are spectacular views of the Spokane River, and the rock climbing walls provide a chance for the kids to watch people scaling the vertical rocks. On a hot summer day the city beach with lifeguards is right there at the park for a swim or a picnic.

Higgins Point in Coeur d’Alene – At the east end of Coeur d’Alene Lake Drive, it’s a leisurely walk along a paved trail next to the lake. Perfect if you don’t want to get your feet dirty. We go past the photographer statue and up the hill into the park, then down one of the rugged trails to the water’s edge.

English Point National Recreation Trail in Hayden – This one’s kind of hidden away off Highway 95. We love looping through the woods, catching glimpses of Hayden Lake, and generally feeling like we’re in the middle of nowhere. If you’re on your way to Silverwood Theme Park, make a quick stop at English Point.

Mineral Ridge in Coeur d’Alene – The longest of the hikes, at 3.3 miles. We only do it once or twice a year, and make it an all-day trip, with a picnic at the very top where the lake view is well worth the climb. There’s a little cave to explore on the way up, and the whole area is rich with mining history.

Beauty Bay Trail in Coeur d’Alene – At the east end of Lake Coeur d’Alene on Hwy. 97, the Beauty Bay Trail is the shortest and easiest hike, at just a half-mile to a viewing deck and then another half-mile through the forest. The kids might want to walk it twice.

Ancient Cedars

Cougar Bay Preserve in Coeur d’Alene – A few miles south of the Blackwell Island Bridge on Hwy. 95, Cougar Bay is one big wildlife nursery with miles of rugged trails. If you want to pretend to be lost in the woods, this is a good place to do it.

Settlers Grove of Ancient Cedars in Murray – Further away than the other hikes, but worth the drive to the Silver Valley. It’s a quiet place, with few visitors. The level dirt trail winds through huge towering cedar trees that make you feel like you’re in another world. In Murray, the historic Sprag Pole Museum is a must-see while you’re in the area. It’s also a good place to get a huckleberry shake.

All photos by Phil Corless

Bench with a view, Lake Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

National Geographic called Lake Coeur d’Alene one of the most beautiful lakes in the world.  I might be a little biased since I live right next to it, but I’d certainly have to agree.  Located in the panhandle of Idaho, far from the state’s population center of Boise, the alpine beauty of Lake Coeur d’Alene offers a wide variety of fun family activities, whether you’re on a budget or you have money to burn.

To me, it’s just about the ideal place to spend a few carefree summer days on the water.  With a length of over 25 miles and a shoreline measuring over 109 miles, the lake is big enough that it never feels crowded, even on the busiest Saturday in August.

The obvious place to begin your family vacation is in the city of Coeur d’Alene, which sits on the north shore of the lake and is your best bet for lodging.  Your hotel options range from the luxurious Coeur d’Alene Resort, which juts out over the water near downtown, to a Holiday Inn Express less than a mile from the city beach.

Summer fun in the water

During the summer months, mainly July and August, the water temperature of the lake is perfect for any activity you can imagine.  My kids and I swim at least two or three times a week during these warm days.  Coeur d’Alene’s city facilities stretch out across the north shore, so you don’t have to go looking for a spot to set up your beach chairs.  City Beach offers the safety of lifeguards, but if you want to get away from the crowds there, simply stroll down to the adjacent beach in front of North Idaho College.  You’ll feel like you have the lake to yourself.

If you want to do more than just sit on the beach and take in the beautiful view, you don’t have to go very far for a refreshing hike.  Right smack dab in the middle of downtown Coeur d’Alene is what can only be described as the jewel of the town.  Tubbs Hill is a 135-acred forested peninsula with a 2-mile loop trail that takes you all along the shoreline, where you can find secluded beaches, scenic overlooks, rocky coves, and woodland habitats.  My family hikes Tubbs Hill regularly, and I’m always amazed at the beauty of the place, not to mention the fact that the city was able to save this urban wilderness from development.  We pack a picnic lunch, hike out to the tip of the peninsula, and find a quiet spot for the afternoon.

Tubbs Hill

If you want to get out onto the water, there are several options.  At Independence Point, next to City Beach, you can rent jet skis, kayaks, and paddle boats.  Many different businesses in town offer reasonable rentals on everything from jet boats to luxury yachts.  Well, I’m not so sure if the words “reasonable” and “luxury yacht” go together.  The Resort also offers daily lake cruises, ranging from 90 minutes to 6 hours.  There’s even a parasail boat and a float plane if you want to see things from a different perspective.

If your kids are waterlogged and tired of hiking, you can rent some bikes and head down any number of paved bike trails that hug the lake shore.  The Centennial Trail runs right through downtown, heading east all the way to Higgens Point and west along the Spokane River, across the border into Washington, all the way into the city of Spokane.  Or, you can explore the prairie north of the lake on the new Prairie Trail, which connects with all the other bike trails.  Come to think of it, there are so many miles of trails around here, you might actually get lost.  But a good kind of lost.  If a park is what the kids are hoping for, there’s the City Park which, naturally, sits right next to City Beach, and contains a huge castle-like play structure for the kids to run wild on.

Hiking, biking, boating, and swimming.  What more could you ask for in a relatively inexpensive family vacation?  You’ll find it all here, in one extremely centralized location at the north end of Lake Coeur d’Alene.  Like I said, though, it’s a big lake and there’s certainly more to explore.  But I’ll save that for another post.  I could talk about “my lake” endlessly.  I’m sure that if you bring your family to this part of Idaho, you’ll also be talking about one of the most beautiful lakes in the world.

Kayaking on Lake Coeur d'Alene

Scenic overlook on Tubbs Hill

Cliff diving in Idaho

All photos by Phil Corless