Vacations Blog

The city and the Golden Gate.

Early last year my wife and I took a trip to Larkspur, CA.

Now I will admit, Larkspur was not necessarily top on our list of “Places We’d Like to Visit Before We Die,” but at the time we were in possession of a $150 Marriott Hotels gift card and were in search of a local destination at which to cash it in. Much to my surprise, Marriott doesn’t have much to offer that’s off the beaten path, so in our quest for “exotic locales,” Larkspur won out over Walnut Creek and San Jose.

That being said, Larkspur is a very quaint little town, close to Mt. Tamalpais and only a stone’s throw from Sausalito, just over the Golden Gate Bridge as you leave San Francisco. The Larkspur Marriott, located at 2500 Larkspur Landing Circle, is but a short walk from the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. The hotel itself is your standard Marriott fare; far from horrible but certainly nothing special either. What did we care, we were only planning to sleep there.

Most of our day was spent testing out my wife’s new Digital Rebel.  And what better place to snap some beautiful test photos than the Marin Headlands.

Situated just North of San Francisco, high above the Golden Gate, the Headlands offer some of the most spectacular views of the world’s most famous suspension bridge, and the jewel that is San Francisco nestled below.  We spent several hours in the Headlands and watched the skies change from the crystal blue you see above, to the foggy white for which San Francisco is famous. It’s amazing how quickly the fog rolls in when you’re on the ocean, high above the city; how it spills over the hillsides, filling the valleys like mustard gas, only without all the uncomfortable blistering and accompanying screams of agony.

With the fog came the cold, the temperatures dropping from a comfortable 70 to somewhere closer to 55. At that point we decided to drive down to Sausalito, where we enjoyed some hot clam chowder and a cocktail at the now defunct Cat ‘n Fiddle Public House. Believe me, if you’ve never been you aren’t missing a thing. Seriously, where else can you pay nearly $30 for soup and a cocktail?

In search of a restaurant where our money would stretch a little further, we ended up at the Marin Brewing Company. This was much more our style; reasonably priced pub grub and beer, or at least what passes for reasonable in Marin County.

We spent the latter part of the evening enjoying the Marriott’s  hot tub, that is until the chiropractor from Nevada, his wife and three kids showed up. If I may interject a slight pet peeve here, I’m of the opinion that hot tubs are for the relaxation of slightly inebriated adults, not lap pools for youngsters.

In any event, after a good night’s sleep it was once again time to eat. We queued up for the Marriott’s plentiful breakfast buffet. As we ate, I watched an elderly gentleman rise from his chair to muck around with his wallet or handkerchief or some such thing that elderly folks are forever mucking with, and I noticed that his chair was in danger of tipping backwards. Timing my rescue with my third trip through the buffet line, I caught his chair just as balance lost its battle with gravity, righted it and moved on, all in one fluid movement. Batman could have done no better.

My wife nixed my suggestion to swing by San Quentin Village on our way home. Perhaps an adventure for another day.

Marin Headlands

Hawk Hill Tunnel

The author and the photographer

Marin Headlands

Photos: Lisa Romano

The beaches of Northern California are stunning. They are dramatic and moody and rocky and cold. If you are crazy, you can surf the wild icy waters. If you are of a more normal constitution, you can sit in the coarse sand or gaze down from the top of a steep cliff and watch the powerful waves crash into the land, with a dull and constant roar.

Most people rave about the sunny warm beaches of Southern California. I agree that the sand is softer, the waves are gentler and the sun is warmer. It is probably pretty groovy to live by one, too. But, let’s be honest, folks. This isn’t the Caribbean…and never will be. If you can’t offer me clear aquamarine water, white sugary sand and reefs filled with colorful corals and fish then I would much rather the moody wildness of the Northern California coast.

But, this is just my take. I’d love to hear your opinion!

Which type of beach is your favorite and why?

Thanks to clairity for the NoCal and mbtrama for the SoCal beach pictures.

Kim Kavin is a freelance writer, photographer and published author based out of Long Valley, NJ. She was formerly the Executive Editor of Yachting Magazine. Her writings have appeared in media publications like Elite Traveler and Traveler Overseas. She has visited more than two dozen countries, and she writes prolifically, literally about ‘everything’. Another one of her books – Everything Family Travel Guide to Northern California and Lake Tahoe – is set for a launch in November 2008. So I asked her a few questions about the book and her career as a travel writer.

Question: Would you like to tell us a bit about yourself, and how you got into travel writing?
Ans: I’ve always been good at writing and editing. In first grade, I found some typos in a textbook, and my teacher helped me write a note about them to the publisher. It was a natural that I’d become the high school newspaper editor, a journalism school graduate, and then a professional journalist.
I actually started out professionally as an editor working in newspapers, but decided I wanted to work regular hours and write about more than crime and politics. I answered an ad in Editor & Publisher for an “outdoor magazine editor” near where I lived. It turned out to be Yachting magazine, and I got the job as executive editor. After a few years there, I realized that the writers were having all the fun, so I quit and went freelance. I started out writing about travel onboard yachts, and the books about general travel were a natural outgrowth of all my reporting experiences around the world.

Question: You have written books about everything from cruise vacations to a kid’s guide and timeshares, not to mention about writing for magazines itself. For 2008, you have two books, one which is a travel guide for the New York area, while the second one is a guide for Northern California and Lake Tahoe. I understand you live in New Jersey, so the first book would come naturally to you. How about the California guide? Why choose Northern California? How long did it take you to go around this area?
Ans: The Northern California idea actually came from the publisher. My editor at Adams Media asked me if I’d done any traveling there, and I had, because my husband and I have good friends who lived in Santa Cruz at the time. So I knew a fair amount about the area before even beginning the research for that book.
I don’t think a travel writer’s home base has anything to do with the areas she can cover. I travel so much for assignments that I know some Caribbean islands and Mediterranean ports better than the towns a few miles away from my own bedroom.

Question: Related question – Could you describe the California guide for our readers? I understand it has 432 pages. What is it about? Which are the major locations, what kind of travel tips? Is it a travelogue with restaurants and shops and stuff or do you focus on the natural beauty of the region, or both, or something else?
Ans: The Northern California book follows the standard Everything Guide format, which means straight how-to and general information that will help with planning a vacation. There are chapters on everything from San Francisco to Wine Country to Gold Country, as well as tips for places to visit whether you’re traveling as a couple or with children. There are extensive listings of restaurants and hotels in each chapter, too, so that no matter which part of Northern California interests you, you will be able to plan your vacation soup to nuts.

Question: The title of your book contains San Francisco, Yosemite, Monterey and Lake Tahoe. Which part of Northern California do you like the best?
Ans: I’m personally a fan of Napa and Sonoma, which is California Wine Country. My husband and I love wine and food, and Northern California labels are a big part of our life out in New Jersey. I think anyone who drinks California chardonnays or pinot noirs regularly would enjoy touring the wineries, learning about food pairings, and such.

Question: People in Socal might feel a bit depressed that you chose to ignore them. Any plans to do Southern California? And how does California compare with the East Coast?Ans: If the Everything Guide editors want a book about Southern California, I’d be happy to write it. I have friends and family from Los Angeles to San Diego, and it’s beautiful out there.
As for California versus the East Coast, I would simply say that they’re different. They’re both great in their own way. I live out East because that’s where most of my family is located. If somebody told me we were all up and moving to San Francisco, I’d go along without a single complaint.

Question: You were a copy editor and have been in other editorial positions for mainstream magazines before you got into the travel sector. Is it any different, or do you just do the same thing?
Ans: I get to leave my desk now. That’s certainly a lot more fun. And instead of interviewing police officers and politicians in fluorescent-lighted offices, I get to hang out with tour guides and restaurant owners on beaches and mountainsides.
Being a full-time freelancer also means I get to pick and choose my projects instead of doing whatever the new corporate boss wants on any given day. I must say that’s pretty great, too.

Question: You have any other passions or hobbies, other than writing?
Ans: I like to hike, which I do most every day with our two dogs. They’re probably my biggest passion. I’m one of those weirdos who treats the dogs like kids. They sit on the couch and eat better food than most people.
I’m also a fan of scuba diving, which I do every chance I get. And my husband and I both like to cook, so that’s a bit of a hobby as well.

Question: Are you currently writing any new books, or have plans for one? If so, what is it about?
Ans: I’m currently finishing the Everything Guide to Las Vegas, after which I will immediately start writing the Everything Guide to Italy.

Question: Any advice, tips or suggestions for travel writers?
Ans: Fill up your notebook and take lots of pictures. I find that I always return home from an assignment with vastly more information than I need for whatever book or article I was sent there to collect. I can almost always use the “leftover” content in other magazines, on websites, or as the basis for new book proposals.

On a recent search for motels for an upcoming trip, I came across a few I would characterize as kitschy – original motor inns, catering to the auto traveler from days past. I thought these were worth sharing, if you are looking for a nostalgic trip back in time.

Ocean Park Motel

Built in 1936 (the same year as the Golden Gate Bridge) this art-deco landmark, located near the San Francisco Zoo and Ocean Beach, has not changed much since it was first built. Designed by Conrad Kett in a nautical theme, original visitors would stay while visiting Sutro Baths, Playland-at-the-Beach and Fleischhacker Zoo.

Red Victorian Bed, Breakfast & Art

Originally the Jefferson Hotel, built in 1904, the Red Victorian rose to prominence during the “Summer of Love” when it became a haven for flower children and hippies. In 1977, Sami Sunchild acquired the property, giving Red Vic its name and mission to foster peace, ecology and global friendship. Run as a Bed & Breakfast, guests can chose from 18 creatively decorated room, and are invited to join other travelers for morning Breakfast Conversations.

Madonna Inn

Construction began in 1966 on this over-the-top inn in San Luis Obispo. Phyllis and Alex Madonna designed each of the 109 rooms around a unique theme, incorporating many personal favorites (Phyllis loves the color pink and Alex is fond of rocks). Great for families who love kitsch, this inn features rooms and suites with several different configurations. If you plan to stay more than one night, don’t be afraid to ask to switch rooms for a new experience, apparently it is the thing to do!

As long as you are near San Luis Obispo, be sure to stop and see what remains of the Motel Inn, the world’s first motel, built in 1925 by Los Angeles architect Arthur Heineman. This new motor lodge, designed around a central courtyard with a swimming pool and picnic tables, was revolutionary for the time. Until then, most travelers camped or stayed home. With the advent of the Milestone Motel, travelers rested in comfortable two-room bungalows for $1.25 a night with a private adjoining garage.

What is your favorite kitschy motel and why? How about kitschy roadside attraction? Giant Bob’s Big Boy, anyone?

Photo courtesy of Ocean Park Motel.

Girl’s Getaway and Camping don’t usually go together in the same sentence, except when you are talking about my girlfriends and Costanoa, the something-for-everyone camp experience located half way between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz. Last month, I dragged my two intrepid girlfriends, Kim and Marie, with me for a weekend away from the boys and kids. Wow, what a great girl’s getaway!

We arrived on Friday afternoon to find our Pine Village Tent Bungalow all ready for us. A bit of a tight squeeze for three friends, it nevertheless offered us the opportunity to channel our inner 12-year old and pretend we were on a sleepover! That, and conveniently located comfort stations, allowed us to relax while still communing with nature.

As much as I enjoy lugging out my Dutch oven to cook dinner when we family camp at Big Basin, I was thrilled to visit the Cascade Bar & Grill for our meals. Wonderful local cuisine and wines ensured the three of us were well fed. After dinner, while my friends went back to our bungalow, I stayed at the lodge to meet up with a group of other travelers for a little Naked Eye Stargazing.

Saturday morning, we had our choice of many activities, including horseback riding, surfing lessons and yoga – in the end, we decided to join a hike to Franklin Point with a local tour guide. On the way, my friend Kim ooh’d and aah’d over the coastal flora and we took in the gorgeous views of the Northern California coast. We had to hurry back, as we had reservations for massages at the spa – well worth it, as the masseuses erased all of the week’s tension.

On Sunday, after check out, we headed out to Harley Farms Goat and Dairy Ranch for a “behind-the-scenes” tour of the operation, plus a special cheese tasting at the end. I also insisted we stop at the Pie Ranch Farm Stand to pick up pie, claiming this was much easier than actually picking our own berries at Swanton Berry Farms!

Driving back home over the hill, I reveled in the time spent with my good friends and the chance to get away from my everyday life in such a beautiful retreat. Already looking forward to our next girl’s getaway. Paris, anyone?

Photo courtesy of Henryk Kotoviski 

With a family of 4, it feels as though standard hotel accommodations can break the bank when we travel. Friends of ours, who have 4 kids, told us a little secret – they stay in hostels!

Hostels use to be the accommodation of choice for teenagers and young adults, 18-25 years, primarily while traveling through Europe. These days, more and more hostels cater to families, offering private rooms, ensuite bathrooms, and events geared towards all ages. Whether you are single and carefree, or traveling with your family, Northern California has many hostels to suit your needs.

San Francisco has dozens of hostel options, from guest houses in the Castro to several hostels within walking distance of Union Square and downtown. Check out Pacific Tradewinds Hostel on Sacramento or the Adelaide Hostel, a 5 minute walk from Moscone Center. Most of the hostels in San Francisco are geared towards student travelers, so if you take your family, be prepared for late night noise and possibly some unusual questions from your kids!

If you are adventuring outside of the City, I recommend checking out one of the beautiful coast-side hostels, including two lighthouses, Pigeon Point and Point Montara. Pigeon Point is near enough to Año Nuevo State Reserve, where you can visit the resident elephant seals. Both these hostels have close up views of the Pacific Ocean, offering a truly memorable travel experience.

Farther down the Peninsula, close to the UpTake offices, is a favorite local gem – Hidden Villa. As the name suggests, this hostel is tucked up at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains and is the oldest operating hostel in the United States. Known for its organic gardens and kids programs, the Hidden Villa property showcases several environmentally sustainable designs. Whether you stay overnight or visit for the day, guests of all ages enjoy the working farm and miles of hiking trails.

Have you stayed at a hostel recently? Any recommendations for your favorite in Northern California?

Photo courtesy of Hidden Villa.