Vacations Blog

With its upscale restaurants, landmark buildings, beautiful bridges and breathtaking views, San Francisco always tops the lists of favorite US cities and tourist destinations.  Many people come to visit during the summer months and get disappointed by the cold fog and damp weather. However you would be pleasantly surprised if you made a trip to the city during this time of year.  The winter months often bring cold temperatures but very blue skies during the day and nights full of stars.

San Francisco is almost more beautiful at night during the holidays than any other time of year – and that is saying something.

During the holidays living in the City is such a gift: the bright lights on the Embarcadero Center row of buildings, outlined to look like giant present boxes; the beautiful window displays in high-end stores like Gump’s and multi-colored lights adorning neighborhood parks and homes. Walk through any of these areas of the city and you can’t help but smile and get a little more into the holiday spirit.

If you are visiting the City or planning to in the future and want to experience a uniquely San Francisco evening, I have the perfect recipe for you. The itinerary will need a little planning but should only require one phone call for the dinner reservation.  This evening is a local favorite for a romantic date but it can be adjusted for just a great night out with friends or family.

First thing you want to do is plan on wearing some warm layers of clothing, especially a scarf and gloves.  San Francisco at night, during this time of year, can be very cold. Wear some nice holiday clothes and comfortable shoes and you will be set for the evening.

Begin the evening with a drink at the beautiful Big Four Restaurant on Nob Hill. Located inside the Huntington Hotel, this secret spot doesn’t have the view that you can get from the Top of the Mark, but this is the place locals go. Filled with beautiful dark wood, the bar area is rich and a historic reminder of the robber barons that built San Francisco.

After a glass of wine or cold cocktail, walk slowly across California Street, watching out for the cable cars and taxi drivers heading across town. Criss-cross the street and stroll through Huntington Park, a wonderful small city park situated between Grace Cathedral and The Fairmont Hotel.  It is one of my favorite parks to visit at night during the holidays because the neighborhood association installs beautiful old-fashion lights in the trees.

Walk through the park towards your dinner reservations, at Venticello Ristorante on Taylor Street. This wonderful Italian restaurant has a warm intimate setting that reminds you of San Francisco society pages from the 1920s. I have had dinners where I have watched patrons walk in that could have been related to Grace Kelly or Kim Novak, in their style of dress and manner. The food is classic Italian with homemade pastas, risotto and roasted meats. The fireplace and wood oven add warmth to your dinner setting along with a backdrop of cable cars going up and down California Street.

After your dinner walk down Taylor Street to Jackson Street and catch the Powell-Hyde Cable Car, with its maroon colored sign, to head towards the waterfront and Hyde Street Pier.  The cable car ride will be very chilly but you can cuddle up inside the center of the car or wrap your scarf tighter and hang onto the outer poles like a local.

Your ride will take you up past Nob Hill and across Russian Hill until you head down Hyde Street to the end of the line. Hop off and turning your back to the bay, walk into The Buena Vista Cafe – home of the perfect Irish Coffee!

Irish Coffee

The recipe of this famous drink was created in 1952 when the restaurant owner and a well known travel writer worked to re-create a highly touted “Irish Coffee” served at Shannon Airport in Ireland.

The Irish Coffee served here at the Buena Vista is the perfect night cap any night of the year, but especially in winter.  How and when you decide to end your evening is up to you, but after all the lights, rich foods, fresh air and drinks – I recommend taking a cab home. Enjoy!

If you’re planning a trip, check out flights to San Francisco.

Photo credits to bill lim, tinou, shayne kaye and rick

Marble House

Peak tourist season in Newport, Rhode Island is summer.  Founded on Aquidneck Island in 1639, Newport was one of the first major seaports in the colonies, was significant in whaling and the slave trade, and was one of the first popular getaway locations for wealthy American families when the rich first became richer in the 1870s.  Newport is also a major naval base, frequent host of the America’s Cup regatta, location of the International Tennis Hall of Fame (the U.S. Open was first played here in 1895), home to annual jazz and folk festivals, and the summer residence of two presidents.  In short, Newport is where money meets the sea.

The Breakers Library

Being a summer resort doesn’t mean that Newport isn’t a popular destination other times of the year. Year-round, tourists come by land and sea to sightsee, shop, dine and relax.  Christmastime, in fact, is probably the second busiest time of the year.  It’s then that tourists can see holiday decorations in the mansions built here by America’s very rich—families with names such as Vanderbilt and Astor—in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.  Nine of those mansions are operated by The Preservation Society of Newport County.  Three of these—The Breakers, The Elms and Marble House—are especially decked out for the holidays.  Inside are hundreds of ornaments on dozens of trees, thousands of poinsettias, fresh flowers and wreaths, dining tables set with period silver and china, and mannequins in period holiday dress. Another mansion, The Astors’ Beechwood, is not only decorated but populated with actors portraying the Astor family and their servants.  Visitors can tour the home as these characters prepare for Christmas, sing carols, and entertain in the grand ballroom.  Guests can even dine with the family at Beechwood’s Victorian Christmas Feast featuring a multi-course period meal.

The Elms Foyer

The Preservation Society’s Breakers, Elms and Marble House are decorated and open daily for tours from November 15 through January 4 except for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.  A Winter Passport ticket providing daytime admission to all three houses can be purchased for $25 for adults and $9 for children ages 6 to 17. Purchased separately, admission to The Breakers is $16.50 for adults and $4 for children ages 6 to 17. Marble House and The Elms are each $11 for adults and $4 for children 6 to 17. Information on additional ticket packages and special holiday events such as visits with Santa Claus on Sundays in December (at no extra charge), holiday concerts and refreshments, and a holiday dinner dance are available at the Preservation Society website.

At Beechwood, a schedule of holiday tours and events is available at the Beechwood Web site.  Standard tour admission is $20 for adults and $8 for children ages 6 to 17. A family rate of $50 is available for two adults and up to four children. Reservations are strongly suggested. Tickets for the Victorian Christmas Feast are $125 for all seatings and reservations are required.

For travelers planning to visit Newport, dozens of choices exist for accommodations and even more for dining.  A couple favorite restaurants of my family are the Red Parrot and the dockside Candy Store at the Clarke Cooke House which my wife and I (and our waitress) agreed makes the best hot fudge anywhere.

All photos courtesy of The Preservation Society of Newport County. The Breakers Library and The Elms Foyer photos by John Corbett.