Standing on the levee of the Mighty Mississippi
The historic city of Natchez, Mississippi is located on the banks of the Mississippi River overlooking the rich delta lands of Louisiana. Founded in 1716, it is the oldest settlement on the Mississippi River. It has been reported that during the years prior to the Civil War, Natchez was home to more millionaires per capita than any city in America.. Though the years of the Civil War were devastating for most of the elite landowners in Natchez and their farmlands, many of their majestic homes were spared destruction.
Today Natchez boasts more pre-Civil War homes and structures than any city it’s comparable size. Over 1000 buildings both residential and non are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. And while there are innumerable things to see and do when visiting Natchez, certainly no trip there would be complete without visiting some of these historic plantation homes.
On our recent visit, we selected two because of time constraints.
Melrose Plantation (c. 1848) is a Greek Revival styled mansion operated by the National Park Service. The former home of John T. McMurren sits on 80 terraced and well manicured acres in the heart of the city. The house, which contains contains many of the original furnishings, is open year round 8:30 am to 5:00 pm with guided tours hourly starting at 10:00 am. Adult ticket prices are $8 and children (6-17) $4. Self guided tours of the grounds and numerous outbuildings, including some of the slave cottages, are free of charge.
Melrose Plantation in Natchez, Mississippi
One of the most enjoyable aspects of our tour of Melrose was the fact that as a part of the National Park Service, children could participate in the Junior Ranger Program. By completing activities like a scavenger hunt and word find the kids could earn a Junior Ranger badge and patch. It was an exciting way to get the kids engaged and learning more about the history of this beautiful place.
The New Class of Junior Rangers
No trip to Natchez would be complete without a visit to Longwood Plantation. In my opinion, there is no other mansion that so vividly illustrates the utter devastation of the Civil War and it’s affects on the lives of wealthy Southern plantation owners. Construction of the 30,000 square foot Longwood began just prior to the Civil war. Yeah–thirty thousand! It’s unique octagonal shape was more Oriental in style than the typical Greek style so popular during the time.
Longwood Plantation in Natchez, Mississippi
Unfortunately, it was never completed. When the Civil War started most of the workers, who were from the north, simply dropped their tools and fled to their homes and families. Dr. Nutt, the owner of the estate, died in 1864. His wife remained, living in the completed the first floor of the estate but the fields and lands owned by the family had been burned by Union soldiers and financially it was unfeasible to continue the construction on the rest of the home. To this day only 9 of the 32 rooms are completed–a mere 10,000 square feet.
The unfinished interior of Longwood Plantation
The unfinished interior of Longwood Plantation
There are numerous other fine homes open for touring year round. The Natchez Pilgrimage Tours coordinates tours and ticketing. A three home tour package is available for $24 (adult) and $18 (children 6-13). Twice annually, during the Spring and Fall Pilgrimages, additional homes, many private residences, are open for touring. These events are a fantastic way to see many of the homes not normally available for viewing. This year’s Fall Pilgrimage is scheduled September 26-October 10, 2009. Check the Pilgrimage Tours website for specifics.
The Mississippi River as viewed from the Eola Hotel in Natchez, MS
There are plenty of hotels available in and around Natchez, even some of the Plantation homes operate as Bed and Breakfasts. Definitely worth the luxury if your budget will allow.
Our favorite is the Natchez Eola Hotel. Well apportioned rooms and a very accommodating staff. The epitome of Southern Charm.
The Natchez Eola
Here’s a tip: if you plan on visiting Natchez during the Pilgrimages call early for reservations. Rooms fill up fast. Many of the online reservation sites I consulted showed no availability. (Our recent visit fell on one of the weekends of the Spring Pilgrimage.) Call the hotels directly, sometimes you can get pretty lucky.
I would also be remiss if I did not give mention to just a few of the many, many wonderful places to eat in Natchez. Mid-day, when you need just a bite to tide you over, Fat Mama’s Tamales at 303 South Canal St. is the place. Come for the tamales, stay for the “Knock You Naked” margaritas. (#2 on my all time list for best margarita ever!)
If its just good ol’ southern comfort food you need for lunch then head south on Hwy 61 about 4 miles to a little place called Mammy’s Cupboard. You can’t miss it. Seriously, you can’t miss it. It’s open Tuesdays through Saturdays, and they don’t take credit cards. Get the Mississippi Mud Pie–trust me.
Mammy's Cupboard
Pearl Street Pasta is an excellent little pasta place located across from the Eola Hotel on, oddly enough, Pearl Street. It’s small, only seats about 20 or so but well worth the wait if you have to. They specialize in Italian and American fare with several specialty Italian dishes.
Pearl Street Pasta
If you feel the need to gorge yourself then Cock of the Walk at 200 N. Broadway St. is the place. I had forgotten just how good fried catfish can be. And the slaw! Mmm, heaven. Cock of the Walk is an experience not to be missed in Natchez casual dining. The cornbread flipping is a definite crowd pleaser.
A trip to Natchez, Mississippi is like taking a step back in time. You’ll see and experience first hand what life would have been like in the luxurious deep south. The city is rich in history and southern hospitality and perfect for making memories as a family.
Always remember A Southern Belle does not wear red.
