Vacations Blog

Standing on the levee of the Mighty Mississippi

The historic city of Natchez, Mississippi is located on the banks of the Mississippi River overlooking the rich delta lands of Louisiana.  Founded in 1716, it is the oldest settlement on the Mississippi River.   It has been reported that during the years prior to the Civil War, Natchez was home to more millionaires per capita than any city in America..  Though the years of the Civil War were devastating for most of the elite landowners in Natchez and their farmlands, many of their majestic homes were spared destruction.

Today Natchez boasts more pre-Civil War homes and structures than any city it’s comparable size.  Over 1000 buildings both residential and non are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  And while there are innumerable things to see and do when visiting Natchez, certainly no trip there would be complete without visiting some of these historic plantation homes.

On our recent visit, we selected two because of time constraints.

Melrose Plantation (c. 1848) is a Greek Revival styled mansion operated by the National Park Service.  The former home of John T. McMurren sits on 80 terraced and well manicured acres in the heart of the city.  The house, which contains contains many of the original furnishings, is open year round 8:30 am to 5:00 pm with guided tours hourly starting at 10:00 am.  Adult ticket prices are $8 and children (6-17) $4.  Self guided tours of the grounds and numerous outbuildings, including some of the slave cottages, are free of charge.

Melrose Plantation in Natchez, Mississippi

One of the most enjoyable aspects of our tour of Melrose was the fact that as a part of the National Park Service, children could participate in the Junior Ranger Program.  By completing activities like a scavenger hunt and word find the kids could earn a Junior Ranger badge and patch.  It was an exciting way to get the kids engaged and learning more about the history of this beautiful place.

The New Class of Junior Rangers

No trip to Natchez would be complete without a visit to Longwood Plantation.  In my opinion, there is no other mansion that so vividly illustrates the utter devastation of the Civil War and it’s affects on the lives of wealthy Southern plantation owners.  Construction of the 30,000 square foot Longwood began just prior to the Civil war.  Yeah–thirty thousand!  It’s unique octagonal shape was more Oriental in style than the typical Greek style so popular during the time.

Longwood Plantation in Natchez, Mississippi

Unfortunately, it was never completed.  When the Civil War started most of the workers, who were from the north, simply dropped their tools and fled to their homes and families.  Dr. Nutt, the owner of the estate, died in 1864.  His wife remained, living in the completed the first floor of the estate but the fields and lands owned by the family had been burned by Union soldiers and financially it was unfeasible to continue the construction on the rest of the home.  To this day only 9 of the 32 rooms are completed–a mere 10,000 square feet.

The unfinished interior of Longwood Plantation

The unfinished interior of Longwood Plantation

There are numerous other fine homes open for touring year round.  The Natchez Pilgrimage Tours coordinates tours and ticketing.  A three home tour package is available for $24 (adult) and $18 (children 6-13).  Twice annually, during the Spring and Fall Pilgrimages, additional homes, many private residences, are open for touring.  These events are a fantastic way to see many of the homes not normally available for viewing.  This year’s Fall Pilgrimage is scheduled September 26-October 10, 2009.  Check the Pilgrimage Tours website for specifics.

The Mississippi River as viewed from the Eola Hotel in Natchez, MS

There are plenty of hotels available in and around Natchez, even some of the Plantation homes operate as Bed and Breakfasts.  Definitely worth the luxury if your budget will allow.

Our favorite is the Natchez Eola Hotel.  Well apportioned rooms and a very accommodating staff.  The epitome of Southern Charm.

The Natchez Eola

Here’s a tip:  if you plan on visiting Natchez during the Pilgrimages call early for reservations.  Rooms fill up fast.  Many of the online reservation sites I consulted showed no availability.  (Our recent visit fell on one of the weekends of the Spring Pilgrimage.)  Call the hotels directly, sometimes you can get pretty lucky.

I would also be remiss if I did not give mention to just a few of the many, many wonderful places to eat in Natchez.  Mid-day, when you need just a bite to tide you over, Fat Mama’s Tamales at 303 South Canal St. is the place.  Come for the tamales, stay for the “Knock You Naked” margaritas.  (#2 on my all time list for best margarita ever!)

If its just good ol’ southern comfort food you need for lunch then head south on Hwy 61 about 4 miles to a little place called Mammy’s Cupboard.  You can’t miss it.  Seriously, you can’t miss it.  It’s open Tuesdays through Saturdays, and they don’t take credit cards.  Get the Mississippi Mud Pie–trust me.

Mammy's Cupboard

Pearl Street Pasta is an excellent little pasta place located across from the Eola Hotel on, oddly enough, Pearl Street.  It’s small, only seats about 20 or so but well worth the wait if you have to.  They specialize in Italian and American fare with several specialty Italian dishes.

Pearl Street Pasta

If you feel the need to gorge yourself then Cock of the Walk at 200 N. Broadway St. is the place.  I had forgotten just how good fried catfish can be.  And the slaw!  Mmm, heaven.  Cock of the Walk is an experience not to be missed in Natchez casual dining.  The cornbread flipping is a definite crowd pleaser.

A trip to Natchez, Mississippi is like taking a step back in time.  You’ll see and experience first hand what life would have been like in the luxurious deep south.  The city is rich in history and southern hospitality and perfect for making memories as a family.

Always remember A Southern Belle does not wear red.

Lilo and the King

Everything my kids know about Elvis, Lilo taught them.  And they can sum it up in a 6 word phrase, “Thank you.  Thank you very much.”   Zoë  can do a little lip curl and finger point, but that’s pretty much the end of the hunt.  They don’t know his songs or his movies.  They don’t about Priscilla.  Lisa Marie and Micheal Jackson.  Graceland and Paul Simon.   Sun Studios.

I don’t necessarily feel the need to rectify any of this vast lack of knowledge.  Really, I’m OK with it.  Well, except for the Paul Simon part.  That’s kind of sad and I feel badly about it.

Anyway, I suppose I should give them a bit of background on the poor boy from Mississippi  who would one day become King in culinary circles.  So on our recent trip to Louisiana, I decided to stop in Tupelo, Mississippi where it all began.

The Elvis Presley Birthplace Museum and Chapel

OK, I just lied.  Actually, I needed gas and as I have mentioned before there are no service stations on the Natchez Trace.  When the tank gets low, you pull off.  I suppose the boyhood home, scratch that, birthplace of Elvis Presley in Tupelo was just a bit of lagniappe.  (It’s a Louisiana term–means a little something extra.)

According to This Marker, Elvis is Dead!

Talk about humble beginnings!  He was born in a two room house that his father borrowed $180 to build in 1934.  That’s TWO rooms.  A bedroom and a kitchen.  Keep that in mind when considering the tour.  It doesn’t take long!  Oh, and to boot—he only lived there three years.  The house was repossessed because the family could not afford to repay the loan.

The Two Room House Where Elvis was Born

The First Room of the Two Room House Where Elvis Presley Was Born

The Second Room of the Two Room House Where Elvis Presley Was Born

Also on the birthplace grounds is a chapel which was built by donations from fans,  a museum with a couple of audiovisual presentations focusing on Elvis’ early life and a few costumes and the church where the Presley family attended services.  Oh, and of course, a gift shop.  Gotta schlep the goods.  For the life of me though, I couldn’t find a single Paul Simon album.  They must have been sold out.

The Boy Who Would Become King.

So if you’re a fan of The King, The Elvis Presley Birthplace is a definite a must see if you happen to be anywhere near Tupelo, MS.  It’s located at 306 Elvis Presley Drive.  Hours are 9:00 am to 5:00 pm Monday Through Saturday (1:00 pm to 5:00 pm on Sundays).  Admission is modest, $12 for adults to visit the home, museum and church and just $6 for children 8 years and above.  That’s the see-all-three discounted rate.  The fees are divided between the three individual exhibits–The Home ($4 adults, $2 children), The Church ($6 adults, $3 children) and The Museum ($8 adults, $4 children).

If Elvis is not your cup of tea…

well, there are plenty of gas stations in Tupelo as well.

The Natchez Trace Parkway runs just over 400 miles between Nashville, TN and Natchez, MS.  It is a gentle, winding road chock full of beautiful scenery, rolling hills, trees, wildlife and more interesting and historic stopping points along the route than you can possibly imagine.

The parkway follows an ancient trail that connected the southern portions of the Mississippi River, through Alabama, to central Tennessee. There are numerous ways to experience this amazing road: driving, hiking, biking, horseback riding, and camping.

How did we experience The Natchez Trace?  We just drove.  And stopped often.

The Natchez Trace Parkway is operated by the National Park Service.  There are no fees or reservations required to enter Natchez Trace Parkway which can be accessed from any of the hundreds of small cities and towns that line the outskirts of the Parkway.

A good guidebook and a map are invaluable tools while traveling the Trace.  We used a rather dated copy (1995) of a book called Traveling the Trace by Cathy and Vernon Summerlin as well as consulting the National Park Services website for maps and other information.

A few other things you’ll definitely need to be mindful of:

• The speed limit on the Natchez Trace Parkway is 50 miles per hour.  Trust me, you don’t want to go any faster or you’ll miss something spectacular.
• There are no service stations, convenience stores or lodging directly on the Natchez Trace Parkway. Keep that in mind if the tank gets low or you run out of snacks.  Fear not though, for there are countless communities just on the other side of the tree line that have everything you’ll need.
• Cell phone reception is spotty. Oh, you can get service, but it is probably going to be at the exorbitant roaming rate.
• Be mindful of the wildlife and their propensity to wander into the roadway. There is a lot of wildlife and apparently they are blind–and deaf!!
• The Natchez Trace Parkway gets very dark at night. The roadway is not lighted so unless you appreciate driving in pitch blackness, it may be a good idea to find an exit when the sun goes down.

Next time you’re vacationing anywhere near Nashville or Natchez (or literally anywhere in between) make it a point to visit the Natchez Trace Parkway.  It’s the stuff vacation memories are made of.