Okay, I’m pretty sure this is our last Thanksgiving post. Maybe not. Either way, we here at the UpTake Vacations Blog would like to wish each and every one of you a happy, safe and filling Thanksgiving. You deserve it.
Pies!
Left – apple pie recipe
Right – pumpkin pie recipe
Photo by Laura Charon
I’ve mentioned before, more than once, that Boston Massachusetts is one of my favorite cities. It’s hard to beat the combination of fresh seafood, architecture, and history of the place. Handily, there is one ideal location that combines all three, to provide you with an unforgettable experience on your next trip to Boston – The Freedom Trail.
The Freedom Trail is a three-mile walking tour along the heart of historic Boston, marked by a red line or red brick along the sidewalks. It begins in Boston Common (America’s oldest public park), and ends in Charlestown at the Bunker Hill Monument. Area maps can be purchased at the Information Booth near Park Street Station, and are also available at most area hotels.
Who can argue that autumn is one of the most colorful times of year?
That was a rhetorical question.
Fall is pretty, mostly because of the glorious displays put on by the fall leaves changing color. This phenomenon occurs all over the United States, but some spots offer better views than others. Grab your camera and a road atlas and take a day trip to one of the 11 best fall foliage sites in America.
Fall Leaves on Carriage Road at Acadia National Park
Of course anywhere in the North East is going to boast spectacular fall foliage. The Acadia National Park offers gorgeous views and extensive Ranger-led educational programs so that you can learn more about what you’re staring at. Make sure to head to Bar Harbor Maine before the end of October to take full advantage of the sights and services available.
Fall Leaves at Oak Mountain State Park
Oak Mountain State Park is Alabama’s largest state park. This nearly 10,000 acre forest is featured on several sight seeing lists. Admission is only $3 for adults on weekends and holidays. You can visit the park for fall foliage viewing from 7am to sundown.
Fall Foliage in New Hampshire
While it’s typical to see fall foliage while you’re driving, the Mount offers guided cruises on the M/S Mount Washington. Starting Sunday, September 27, the Mount will offer Fall Foliage Dinner Cruises from 4:30 to 7 p.m. each Sunday through mid-October. The cruise departs from Weirs Beach, boarding at 4 p.m. Cost for adults is$43. Visit Cruise Mount Washington for more information.
Fall Color in Colorado
It’s no surprise that Aspen, Colorado is the perfect place to watch the Aspen trees change colors with the seasons. San Isabel National Forest offers extensive trails for viewing of some of the most fabulous aspen trees in Colorado.
New York Fall Foliage
The Catskills and Hudson Valley region is about a two hour drive from New York City. One of the unique features of this area is that the color changing season lasts about six weeks, with colors rivaling those of its North Eastern neighbors, Vermont and Massachusetts.
Close-up of Pat Patriot, Gillette Stadium, Foxboro, Mass.
Boston Pops and Fourth of JUly
If you find yourself in Boston for the Fourth of July weekend, it is incumbent upon you to take in the spectacular yearly celebration at The Hatch Shell on the Charles River Esplanade. Founded in 1974 by Boston-area businessman and philanthropist, David Mugar, the event was designed to breathe new life into the dying Esplanade concert series. Mugar approached famed Boston Pops conductor, Arthur Fiedler, and suggested that the Pops perform Tchaikovsky’s “1812 Overture” with “a few added extras.” Howitzer cannons, church bells and fireworks were added to the concert “so that, in Arthur Fiedler’s own words, “All hell could break loose.”"
Now in its 36th year, the performance and fireworks welcome over 500,000 visitors from around the world and another seven million+ who view an hour-long special on CBS. This year, Grammy-award winning singer, Neil Diamond will perform some of his hits with the Boston Pops and, for the third year in a row, the live broadcast will be hosted by late night television host, Craig Ferguson.
Growing up, the Sunday before St. Patrick’s Day meant donning Irish knit sweaters, kid-sized scally caps with a shamrock applique and then piling into the family car to head to South Boston, my father’s ol’ neighborhood, for the annual parade. We would arrive hours before the festivities started and make our way to the Peterson’s or the Golden’s or to the Shea’s, whoever was getting started early. The smell of food was always overwhelming, crock pots filling whatever counter space was available, while the dulcet tones of the Clancy Brothers, Tommy Makem, The Chieftains or The Dubliners filled the air.
Twenty-five plus years later these memories are still fresh in my mind – the parade was as much a part of our lives as a birthday or an anniversary. But, things change – people move, families change – and after a while we stopped going. Maybe someday I’ll go back with my new family so the kids can experience this celebration of their ancestry and how important the Irish are to South Boston. If you are so inclined, this year’s parade is Sunday, March 15 and starts at 1:00 p.m. at the Broadway MBTA (’T') stop and wraps up at Andrew Square. And contrary to what Darren wrote, New York’s parade is not actually the oldest – the first parade in the country was held in Boston in 1737. New York’s, however, has been held for more consecutive years, so I guess they got that going for them.
If you do find yourself in Boston for a spell, there’s really no shortage of places to stay or places to eat. I could start listing them out for you or even start naming some of my favorites, but we’d be here for days and you would never read anything I posted ever again, so I won’t do that to you or to me. But since we are near that holidays of holidays, St. Patrick’s Day, I will share with you some of my favorite Irish pubs in Boston and the surrounding environs. Now, I know a list like this is wholly subjective – there may be some pubs people agree with, there will be some pubs people will disagree with and there will be those who say, “Well, what about…?” and all I can say is, “Okay.” I’m sure there will be something on or off this list that even my own wife will ask what it was that I was thinking. With all those caveats, I give you my favorite Irish pubs in Boston and elsewhere.
The Black Rose (Roisin Dubh), Boston, MA
The Black Rose (Roisin Dubh), 160 State Street, Boston: From the pictures of Michael Collins, Eamonn deValera and other heroes of the Easter Rising hanging on the wall to the menu filled with such favorites as Shepherd’s Pie, Bangers and Mash and the old standby Fish and Chips, The Black Rose epitomizes the Irish pub experience in Boston. Located in the historic Faneuil Hall/Quincy Market area of Boston, The Black Rose offers up a diverse crowd of locals and tourists, all of whom are equally interested in a good time. In addition to properly poured pints (a proper pour takes 60-90 seconds and should never be rushed – this ain’t Bud you’re drinking), patrons are treated to live Irish music seven nights a week.
Mr. Dooley's, Boston, MA
Mr. Dooley’s, 77 Broad Street (Financial District), Boston: I’m partial to pubs in which I can actually carry on a conversation with whomever I’m sharing a pint with. Mr. Dooley’s is one of those pubs. Dooley’s is not like one of the “chain” Irish pubs that pop up in city after city. It has a comfortable, lived-in vibe common with the traditional pubs and patrons are often greeted by a bartender with a lilting brogue. The menu is filled with fish and chips and Irish sausages and bacon, but Mr. Dooley’s is also known for its authentic Irish breakfast – the cure for what ails ya. Friday through Sunday there is entertainment and patrons shouldn’t be surprised by an impromptu “Sessuin” – an informal gathering of musicians who come together to play some music, have a pint or two and socialize.
J.J. Foley's, Boston, MA
J.J. Foley’s, 117 East Berkeley Street, Boston: At one time, it was not for the faint of heart. This was always our “everything else is closing, will Jerry let us in?” late night bar. But, it’s been a while since I’ve been back here. I hear they recently renovated the location – new tin ceiling, newly shellacked wood paneling covering the walls – and are now offering a substantial pub menu. J.J’s, as it’s affectionately known, has been in opertion since 1909 and you can always count on the bartenders to be wearing white shirts and black ties, a nice throwback to a bygone era. And don’t be surprised by who you might run into while you’re there – I recall one night trading pints with a former mayor and his security detail.
Bad Abbot’s, 1546 Hancock Street, Quincy: Ah, my home away from home. Nine
Bad Abbot's, Quincy, MA
times out of 10, if we’re back in the Boston area for a weekend, a visit is not complete without a stop in at Abbot’s. I come here primarily for the Guinness as they have some of the smoothest and best poured pints around. My wife comes not only for the pints, but also for the curry chips (fries with a curry dipping sauce). The menu is filled with typical pub fare and patrons can enjoy live entertainment every weekend, as well as a traditional pub quiz during the week. Abbot’s also shows English Premier League games live as well as Scottish League, particularly when Celtic is playing. Spectators can enjoy a solid Irish breakfast during games. And for those fans of good hot fries and other fried foods, rumor has it that Abbot’s will be opening up a “chipper” soon.
Murphy's Twin Shamrocks, Quincy, MA
Murphy’s Twin Shamrocks, 425 Hancock Street, Quincy: One thing about Quincy, I think they have more Irish pubs and bars than Manhattan has Starbucks. Yeah, I know that’s impossible, but you get my point. The Murphy twins (get it? Twin Shamrocks) opened this neighborhood favorite in a former Chinese restaurant about 10 years ago. When it first opened it was dark and somewhat seedy, a perfectly fine mix, with great bartenders many of whom came over from the much lamented Tin Whistle. When I found myself back in the area a few months back, I was pleasantly surprised by the changes I encountered – it was much brighter, each booth had a small flat screen TV, new plasmas around the bar and on the walls – it had a more refined feel. The menu was still the same pub fare and the pints of Guinness were still refreshing. All in all, I’m never disappointed when I pop in for a pint.
We’re no Mother of Presidents like Ohio, but it’s not too bad a showing. I’m talking about the number of presidents that have called New England home. In fact, it only takes four of New England’s six states to match the eight presidents (that’s nearly twenty percent of them, isn’t it?) that the Buckeye State has given us. Here’s a rundown of who they are and what they’ve left behind for travelers to see.
Birthplace of John Adams
John Adams (2nd President)
The Adams Family (no, not that Addams Family) was the first political dynasty of America. Our second president was born in 1735 in Braintree, Massachusetts (which later became the town of Quincy in 1792). Adams National Historic Park in Quincy is a nearly 14 acre compound that includes the birthplace of John Adams and his later home with Abigail which they called Peacefield. Both homes and the surrounding gardens are open for tours.
Not only was John Adams the only one of our first presidents to have a son, but one of his sons also became president.
Birthplace of John Quincy Adams
John Quincy Adams (6th President)
How about having to live up to John and Abigail Adams as parents? John Quincy Adams was born in 1767 in Braintree, and was groomed for politics from a young age. His birthplace also stands in Adams National Historic Park.
Adams wasn’t known as a great president, but interestingly he held more federal offices than most presidents—President, United States Senator and Representative, Secretary of State, and Ambassador. He was, in fact, one of only two former presidents to return to Washington after his presidency to serve in Congress, and was elected to eight terms in the House of Representatives where did have an excellent reputation. Both John and John Quincy Adams along with their wives are buried in Quincy in United First Parish Church.
The Pierce Manse
Franklin Pierce (14th President)
The 1804 birthplace of fourteenth president Franklin Pierce in Hillsborough, New Hampshire is now under water. But at least they call it Franklin Pierce Lake and it serves his hometown as reservoir. The year Pierce was born however, the family moved to a new home which does still stand in Hillsborough as the Pierce Homestead. A later home of Pierce, the Pierce Manse, can also be visited in Concord, New Hampshire.
Pierce too wasn’t known as a great president, but there are some interesting facts about him. Like you might expect from a mid-nineteenth century Romantic, he associated with writers—one of his best friends was Nathaniel Hawthorne and another friend was Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. At least he had good drinking buddies. That’s probably why he died of cirrhosis.
Replica of Chester Arthur Birthplace
Chester Arthur (21st President)
Vermont calls Chester Arthur the other president born in the Green Mountain State. To me this assumes that people know at least one other Vermont-born president. I know all of us UpTake readers are smart, but Americans in general…not so much. (The tag also brings to mind “the other white meat” which is not, I think, what they were going for.)
Arthur was born in Fairfield, Vermont in 1829. There was some speculation at times though that he may have actually been born in Ireland or Canada—which would have made him ineligible to be president. His original birthplace in Vermont did not survive, but was reconstructed in 1950 and is a state historic site.
Childhood Home of Calvin Coolidge
Calvin Coolidge (30th President)
That’s right, Coolidge is the president from Vermont. He’s also the only president to be born on the Fourth of July—in 1872. His childhood home in Plymouth Notch still stands and is actually the site where the thirtieth president was sworn in by his father, a Justice of the Peace. Vice-President Coolidge had been visiting his family when he received the news by messenger that President Warren Harding died on a speaking tour in California.
Coolidge was also one of the first presidents to have an official library. The Calvin Coolidge Presidential Library and Museum is found in Northampton, Massachusetts where Coolidge was once mayor and where he returned to reside after his presidency.
JFK Presidential Library and Museum
John Kennedy (35th President)
Kennedy might be remembered as the most popular president from New England—and he had the accent to prove it. Just visiting Kennedy sites alone could make up a vacation.
Kennedy’s 1917 birthplace is in Brookline, Massachusetts near Boston and is preserved as a national historic site. The John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum is nearby in the Dorchester section of Boston.
Beyond Boston, the Kennedy Compound in Hyannis Port on Cape Cod served as the summer White House during Kennedy’s presidency. The six acre area includes several Kennedy family homes, but they are closed to the public. The John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum however is open to the public. In Newport, Rhode Island, visitors can also enter St. Mary’s Church where John Kennedy married Jacqueline Bouvier in 1953.
Marker of the Birthplace of George Bush
George H.W. Bush (41st President)
The first Bush in the office of president was born in 1924 in Milton, Massachusetts. The home is private, but a stone marks the site. Shortly after George’s birth, the family moved to Greenwich, Connecticut where George was raised. The family also spent much time at the summer home of Bush’s grandfather, Connecticut Senator Prescott Bush, in Kennebunkport, Maine.
Following service in the Army during World War II and college at Yale University in New Haven, Bush and his family moved to Texas where he still resides. Bush also still owns and visits the family home in Kennebunkport several times a year.
Childhood Home of George W. Bush
George W. Bush (43rd President)
Like his father, “W” is better known as a Texan. But he was born in Connecticut in 1946 at Grace-New Haven Community Hospital (later Yale-New Haven Hospital). Bush moved to Texas with his family in 1948, and resides there again following the recent end of his two terms as president.
There you have it—the Presidents of the United States with roots in New England. And even though they were born in four of the six New England states, Kennedy’s wedding and Bush’s summer home get in the other two.
Despite being six states, New England is a pretty compact area. It might be kind of interesting—especially to a presidential history buff (or maybe only to a presidential history buff)—to visit each of these sites. That could probably be done in just a few days time or it could take a couple of weeks if you take in other attractions. But if you come, do it in the late spring, summer or fall. It’s still pretty cold and wet here for Presidents Day in February.
I want to tell you a secret. Something known only to some very intrepid souls and the locals. Want to know the best time to visit Martha’s Vineyard? No, not during the summer, though that is an ideal time. No, the best time to visit The Vineyard is now. In the winter. Trust me.
My wife and I first spent a few days there following a New Year’s Eve wedding in 1998. A weekend away for just the two of us was certainly intriguing (and welcome after the holidays), but admittedly, I was a bit skeptical of her choice for a long-weekend getaway destination. The Vineyard in January doesn’t bring to mind sitting poolside while cabana boys bring fruity drinks with tiny umbrellas (um…I mean lots of beers) nor does it conjure up sitting fireside after several hours of packed powder. To my less knowledgeable self, the Vineyard in January is biting winds and subzero wind chill; it’s empty storefronts and shuttered restaurants. It’s a ghost town. Well, it is and it isn’t.
The Black Dog Tavern, Vineyard Haven
Most people know about The Vineyard as a summer playground for the rich and famous. US Weekly and People have no shortage of stars to photograph in Edgartown or Oak Bluffs from June to September. They might even find some stragglers in October. But come winter, they are off to warmer climes leaving the island to the locals and those with a fondness for quiet. During our first visit, we stayed at Martha’s Place, a B&B in Vineyard Haven, a quaint place on Main Street and only steps from downtown. Most of the shops were still open and are exclusive to The Vineyard – Riley’s Reads, Menemsha Blues, CB Stark, among others – and the owners are always willing to engage in some small talk (or full-blown conversations) while you browse. Need a bite to eat or a good cup of coffee? MV Bagel Authority is the island’s premiere bagel shop with locations in Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. For something a little more substantial, hit the world-famous The Black Dog Tavern down by the harbor. If you decide to check out more of island – up-Island if you will (and you will want to) – there is The Black Dog Cafe outside of Vineyard Haven on the way to Chillmark or Aquinnah. You should know, however, that if you want alcoholic beverages with any of your meals, you will probably have to bring your own as Vineyard Haven is a dry town.
Lifeguard Tower in the snow - www.mvol.com
To the east, and about a 10-minute drive along Beach Road from Vineyard Haven lies historical Oak Bluffs. During the summer months, Oak Bluffs is a bustling and thriving oceanfront resort. It is also home to many historical and nationally recognized landmarks: the Flying Horses Carousel , the oldest operating platform carousel in America; The Campground, once home to the Methodist summer camp famous for its open-air revivals, now renowned for the Gingerbread-style cottages surrounding the Tabernacle and the yearly Grand Illumination in August. But like any summer resort, the winter months see marked decline in visitors – the perfect chance to get a feel for what’s around and decide if you want to brave the summer throngs. There’s no shortage of places to stay in Oak Bluffs – it is a resort town after all – the trick is finding those that are open year-round if you want to set up camp in town. Dining is less of a challenge. Want a good, diner-style breakfast? Linda Jean’s on Circuit Avenue is just the ticket – even in the winter months nearly every seat is taken. For something a little lighter, across the street you’ll find Mocha Mott’s for a great cup of coffee and some pastries. If you’re interested in pub grub, Seasons is a decent bet, just expect a slower pace than usual. If you’re like me, you enjoy a good craft beer and will not be disappointed by the offerings at Offshore Ale Company on Kennbec Avenue, open seven days a week year-round. The IPA is a great choice. For nightlife, check out The Lampost and Rare Duck or go a little more low-key at one of the island’s movie theaters.
Our favorite town, and the one that caused me to fall in love with The Vineyard, is Edgartown. This tony
Edgartown Lighthouse in the snow - www.mvol.com
harbor town was once one of the primary ports of the whaling industry and where the captains of those vessels built the grand mansions that line Water Street on both sides. Again, there are plenty of places to stay in Edgartown – from the historic Harbor View Hotel to the modest conveniences of the Clarion Carriage House Inn – and many of them are open year-round and offer some great (read: affordable), off-season rates. As in Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven, many shops are still open, but may be on winter hours, typically several hours on the weekends. For your dining pleasure, Edgartown is loaded with gret places to eat. David Ryan’s and News from America Pub are two great choices and you won’t be disappointed. But the one that captured our hearts is The Wharf Pub on Main Street. During our first trip, we popped in for lunch and ended up staying for several hours, striking up conversations with the bartenders (locals) and other patrons like us enjoying the Island’s solitude in January. Since this initial visit, our trips to the Vineyard aren’t complete without a significant stay in this great pub.
To get to The Vineyard, take the ferry operated by the Steamship Authority in Wood’s Hole. If you plan on taking your car over (I recommend that during the winter months), you should plan on making reservations in advance as standby travel is not guaranteed. Enjoy yourself. Oh, and dress warmly. Trust me.
© UpTake Networks, Inc. 2009
