Vacations Blog

Not every vacation is a family vacation. Sometimes—either before, after or just without kids—a person wants an adult place to go. Sure “adult” could mean a coffee shop or the symphony, but sometimes “adult” means, you know, adult. (In case you can’t tell, I’m winking my eye and smirking like a teenager right now.)

In the 1990s, Rudy Guiliani and New York tourism and redevelopment offices cleaned up New York and swept away the adult bookstores. Even Times Square became Disneyfied. So how could an adult attraction stay open in New York’s age of clean storefronts and political correctness? Simple. Get a board of distinguished advisors, collect educational research materials, charge admission, and call it a museum.

A vistor to new York City's Museum of Sex disregards the sign.

New York City’s Museum of Sex opened in 2002. To some critics, it may seem like no more than a museum of porn and raunch. But it’s actually much more.

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Forty-seven million people visited Times Square in 2008—making the New York City crossroads the most popular tourist destination not only in the United States, but in the entire world. Sometimes, in fact, it feels like all 47 million are there at once.

A relatively quiet day in Times Square, the Crossroads of the World

When I first moved to NYC nearly nineteen years ago (gee, I’m old) Times Square was still swarming with adult “bookstores” and crack vials in the gutters. Broadway theatergoers tried to overlook the eyesores and stayed within the acceptable boundaries. There weren’t many megastores (if any) or restaurants that you’d want to bring your family into. But that’s changed.

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This upward-view photo of the Statue of Liberty was taken from below the pedastal on twelve-acre Liberty Island. Ferries to Liberty Island and nearby Ellis Island are available from Lower Manhattan and New Jersey on Statue Cruises. Both islands include visitor centers, tours and exhibits, and gift and concession shops. On July 4, 2009, Lady Liberty’s crown will open to the public for the first time since September 11, 2001.

Photo copyright by Darren Farrington

For me to even write this post is asking for trouble. It might be safer to pick a fight with a 300 pound, 6 foot 4 Scot than to throw out my suggestions for the best Irish bars in New York.  The list, of course, is subject to opinion and everyone has theirs. This is mine. And yes, I know that my list is Manhattan-centric. There are some great Irish bars in places like the Woodlawn and Riverdale sections of the Bronx, and in Woodside, Queens, and the Irish Riviera officially know as Breezy Point, but lovingly called Boozy Point. For all I know, there are probably some good Irish bars upstate too. But I know Manhattan best. It’s where I lived about a quarter of my life. It’s also where I’ve wandered the streets for many a St. Patrick’s Day.

If you’re planning to visit New York for St. Patrick’s Day, you’ll probably want to see the parade. New York’s St. Patrick’s Day Parade is the oldest, biggest and self-proclaimed best St. Patrick’s Day parade in the world. New Yorkers first held the parade on March 17, 1762, in honor of the patron saint of the Archdiocese of New York.  In a city that holds a parade for just about anyone, it’s now the largest and most famous of New York’s parades. And it does that without allowing any floats, cars or commercial advertising—it’s 100% musicians, politicians, civil servants, club and society members, and other marchers on foot who are all Irish, or at least Irish for the day.

There’s a nearly endless number of restaurants in New York, of course, and accommodations for every taste and budget. (Or you could just sleep on the floor in Grand Central Terminal and wake up for a train in the morning. Not that I know anyone who’s done that.) But, if you’re going to New York for the St. Patrick’s Day parade, the day isn’t complete without a stop in an Irish pub.

If you’re uneasy about what you might be walking into in an Irish bar on St. Patrick’s Day, don’t be. One of the things I most love about Irish bars and restaurants in Manhattan every March 17 is that entire families come after the parade to continue celebrating. Not all of them are like that, but you can find quite a few family-friendly establishments where moms, dads, grandparents and kids are all enjoying the day. Of course, if you want a loud, young, come-here-just-for-the-drink type of place, New York has that too.

Paddy Reilly’s, at 519 Second Avenue near East 29th Street, is one of the best bars in the City for live Irish music. Mildly famous bands like Black 47 got their start playing weekly here, when I’d crowd in with scores of other middle and upper-class twenty-somethings to sing along and shake our firsts for the Irish proletariat. The bar has a dark, dingy, needs-to-be-cleaned look, but one that makes the young Irish and Irish-wannabes feel right at home. What’s more—the only beer on tap is Guinness. Who could ask for anything more?

Speaking of dark and dingy, McSorley’s Old Ale House, at 15 East 7th Street, is the original dark and dingy Irish-American bar. Seriously. There’s probably dust in there that’s older than our great-grandparents. It’s been open since 1854 and has the reputation for being no-nonsense and stubborn in its ways. Women weren’t allowed in until 1970, and didn’t get a separate restroom until 1986. The bar also serves only two kinds of beer—light and dark—and you’re expected to buy two at a time. You want something else? Find yourself a bar with a menu. McSorely’s also has the reputation for being overcrowded with college kids, but how many bars can you go to that once welcomed Abraham Lincoln? It’s educational, really.

Molly’s Pub & Restaurant, at 287 Third Avenue near 22nd Street, is one of the more family-friendly establishments among the Irish bars of New York.  It’s been called “the most authentic Irish bar in the City” and “New York’s finest Irish pub.” Like most other Irish bars, Molly’s is dark—but at Molly’s, dark isn’t dingy, but warm and cozy with even a log-burning fireplace to add to the charm. Molly’s also has a full menu and gets great reviews and high ratings for its food as well as its beer.

Originally on West 48th Street, the Pig n’ Whistle now has three midtown locations—Third Avenue, Second Avenue, and the most tourist-friendly of the three in Times Square at 165 West 47th Street between Sixth and Seventh Avenues. Unlike other Irish bars, the Pig n’ Whistle is large, bright and polished.  It also has a full dinner and bar menu and gets some great reviews for its food.  The Pig n’ Whistle still has a lot of Irish left in it though. By calling itself the “Best Irish Pub” in New York, for example, it just sounds like it’s askin’ for a fight.

Finally, there’s Dublin House at 225 West 79th Street near Broadway. Be it ever so humble, there’s no place like home. Dublin House was my Irish bar. There were bars closer to my ‘hood near Columbia University, some that I went to too often and another (now closed) that was also an Irish pub, but Dublin House is the place that I always thought of as the local Irish bar. From the dark narrow room to the Guinness on tap to the authentic brogues on the bartenders, this was St. Patrick’s Day to me. I’m sure that I’d feel old now in an evening crowd of twenty-somethings, but I’d probably still feel young, late in the afternoons, sitting with the old regulars at the bar.  That’s the beauty of an Irish bar—that there’s always a welcome, a fáilte, for everyone. With apologies to Robert Frost, an Irish bar is the place where, when you go there, they have to take you in.

Happy St. Patrick’s Day, everyone.

‘Twas the night before Christmas,

When all through the house

Not a creature was stirring,

Not even a mouse.

Clement Clarke Moore Park in Manhattan

Each Christmas season, families gather at a Tenth Avenue park in Manhattan to read the familiar poem that begins with these lines.  The park is named for Clement Clark Moore, who wrote A Visit from Saint Nicholas in 1822. For holiday visitors to New York City, this is a great location to get off the beaten path and away from crowds any time of the year, but still take in some local history with a holiday theme.

The park is located in an area that was once a farm purchased by Moore’s grandfather in 1750 and named Chelsea after the Royal Chelsea Hospital for veterans in London. Although the farm was long ago divided and sold, Chelsea is still the name of this area on Manhattan’s west side south of midtown and north of Greenwich Village. It’s easily reached by subway, by cab, or by foot in this city where locals are known for walking anywhere and everywhere.

In 1965, New York City purchased the site of the present park with plans to build a playground for area residents.  The playground opened in 1968, and was named for Clement Clarke Moore one year later.  Like so many other parks and playgrounds throughout New York City, improvements were made in the 1990s to the park fences, surfaces, landscaping, and play equipment. Although the park may be a regular destination for local residents, it’s open to any visitors daily from dawn to dusk and—despite stories of rude New Yorkers—most families are always welcoming to travelers looking to get away from more crowded tourist destinations.

Clement Clarke Moore Park is located on Tenth Avenue and West 22nd Street in Manhattan. The Clement Clarke Moore Homestead in Queens, another park named for Moore, was the site of an estate first acquired by Moore’s great-great-grandfather in 1652.

The Radio City Music Hall Marquee

Halloween just passed.  Thanksgiving hasn’t even come yet, but the malls and department stores are decked with boughs of holly and other Christmas decorations and ‘Tis the Season is already playing on the public address systems.

Where else has Christmas arrived already?  At Radio City Music Hall in New York City.  Performances of the Radio City Christmas Spectacular starring the Rockettes began this past weekend.  Whether you like to get in the mood early or you wait to see Christmas shows until just before the holiday, the time to buy tickets—for Radio City Music Hall or any Christmas event—is now.

Some families go to the Christmas Spectacular every year.  Others go less often.  For others, it’s a once in a lifetime experience.  As for us, my wife and I have taken our seven year-old daughter twice in the past few years.  My daughter loves everything about New York and everything about seeing a show.  To be honest, when we were first going to the Christmas Spectacular I would have preferred seeing something on Broadway.  But, after going to the Christmas show—and seeing how much my daughter loved it—I was so glad we chose it.  Her favorite part of the show, she said, was “the Santas.”  There were a few dozen dancing Santas on stage (with more descending into a screen behind them while Santa explained that he had “helpers” to be in so many places at once.)  My wife and I loved when it actually snowed on the audience—and not just fake foam or plastic but wet snow that actually melted on us.  The second time we all saw the show, my daughter said that her favorite part was the life-size teddy bears dancing The Nutcracker.  She also loved the Rockettes dancing as rag dolls and soldiers.

Several parts of the Christmas Spectacular are repeated each year and new scenes are added as well while others are phased out.  Traditions like the Rockettes’ Parade of the Wooden Soldiers and a Living Nativity have been included every year since the show first opened in 1933.  Appearances by Santa, more from the Rockettes, scenes of Christmas in New York, and other songs and dances fill out a usual ninety-minute performance.  The show isn’t even the only attraction there.  Radio City Music Hall itself is a 1932 art deco movie palace that underwent a $70 million renovation 1999.  Some of its highlights include the original five-ton thirty-two foot high Wurlitzer organ, the largest theatrical curtain on earth, and a twenty-four carat goldleaf ceiling.

Ice Skating in Rockefeller Center

One of the best things about seeing the Christmas Spectacular at Radio City Music Hall is that there’s also so much else to see during the holidays in midtown Manhattan.  Radio City Music Hall itself is part of Rockefeller Center—home to one of the country’s most famous Christmas trees and a great ice skating rink.  Other attractions within just a few blocks are St. Patrick’s Cathedral, FAO Schwarz toy store, and the windows of Saks Fifth Avenue.  For hotels and dining, options in New York City are endless.  (Seriously, before I could name them all I bet at least one more would open.)  For eating in midtown though, kids would probably love the American Girl Café, Mars 2112 or the Hard Rock Café.  The food is good to mediocre at these restaurants, but it’s not the main attraction—it comes in second to the surroundings.

There’s no denying that New York City is loud and crowded.  During heavy tourist months like December, it’s even more loud and crowded.  But there’s a reason that so many people still love going into the City for the holidays.  With the entertainment, the excitement, the stores and the sights, it’s a pretty magical place to be.

The Radio City Christmas Spectacular plays through December 30, 2008.  See the Radio City Music Hall website for detailed performance times and ticket prices. VIP Packages are also available which include priority seating, a pre-show reception, and deluxe gift bags and souvenir books.