Vacations Blog

View of cabins from the Lodge restaurant.

We approached Big Sur under cover of fog illuminated by a full moon, the throaty rumble of our rented Mustang echoing in the stillness of a nearly deserted Highway 1.

I knew the ocean was to our right, but darkness and the concentration necessary to negotiate the corkscrew of scenic highway prevented me from seeing much more than an occasional lunar reflection on black water.

Our destination, Lucia Lodge, about twenty five miles south of the more populated areas of Big Sur, advertised its “unique cliff-side location” offering “unparalleled and commanding views” of the Big Sur coast and Santa Lucia mountains. Established in the 1930’s, the lodge is now operated by fifth generation descendants of the original owners, Wilbur and Ada Harlan. As we soon discovered, Lucia Lodge is basically all there is to Lucia with twenty-five miles of desolation north on Hwy 1, and about fifteen miles of the same to the south.  We were unaware of this geographical fact when, though famished, we decided to skip the Big Sur Roadhouse in favor of locating the lodge. Twenty-five miles after bypassing the last of civilization to the north, we arrived at 10 PM to a locked and darkened lodge and restaurant.

Cabins from the path.

In the lobby of the restaurant (discovered the next day after the complimentary breakfast of pastries, muffins, bagels, fruit salad, and bowls of hard-boiled eggs) hangs a framed 1984 San Francisco Examiner article which begins, and I quote:

“You’d swear you’ve seen the setting in some brooding film noir classic, maybe a 1940’s dark Howard Hawks thriller: a small coastal roadside gas station-restaurant-store with a few cabins off to the side overlooking a steep cliff.”

This description, sans the gas station which apparently was removed between 1984 and present day, could not be more accurate, and I experienced a very film noir feel as we doubled back about twenty yards to the steep, obscured little road that leads down to ten little cabins over-looking that steep cliff. These cabins make up all there is of Lucia Lodge’s accommodations.

Finding the key under the mat as promised we proceeded to drag our luggage into cabin #7, a cute little A-frame with a high, full-size bed at one end and gas fireplace at the other. In between were an armoire, a couch, a coffee table and a couple of wooden chairs; no phone, no TV, no radio. Oh and no cell phone reception; isolation at its finest. Make a note to bring good books and wine.

Our load considerably lightened we hopped back in the Mustang and roared south on Hwy 1 in search of sustenance, coming up on the Whale Watcher Café some fifteen miles down the road in the town of Gorda Springs. It appeared to be open and we made our way to the bar only to discover that the kitchen was closed. Thankfully the gentleman said the clam chowder was still available so we ordered two bowls and a couple of drinks.  My wife tried the Merlot but knowing I had a fifteen-mile slalom of a drive back, I opted for Sprite, which I find really brings out the flavor in clam chowder.

So the chowder was great, really hit the spot, very generous amount of clams and a good consistency (I hate watery chowder) but when I discovered that we were charged $10.50 per bowl it suddenly wasn’t sitting very well. Had the kitchen been open we could have ordered burgers at about $16.00 a pop (pricey yes but at least it feels like a meal). Personally, I would be embarrassed to charge $10.50 for a bowl of soup no matter how good it is or how famished my customers. But that’s just me. Needless to say we declined the gentleman’s offer to return for breakfast the following morning.

Next installment: A drive up and down and up and down scenic Hwy 1; windy beaches and more meals. Stay tuned!

All photos by Lisa Romano

Historic downtown Boulder City, Nevada

There’s more to Southern Nevada than the mega resorts of the Las Vegas Strip. Located just 20 miles from the hustle and bustle of the gambling and entertainment Mecca, Boulder City offers families an opportunity to explore Southern Nevada’s rich history in a quaint, small town setting reminiscent of Mayberry.

Founded in 1932 by the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation to house workers constructing the nearby Hoover Dam, Boulder City is unlike most destinations in Nevada as gambling is prohibited. The city is one of only two in the state with no casinos. Instead, visitors are welcome to shop antique stores along the city’s downtown streets, visit museum attractions or take advantage of outdoor activities.

Whether staying in Las Vegas and visiting as part of an excursion or staying in the city at one of its charming hotels, a trip to Boulder City is not complete without a visit to the iconic Hoover Dam, located just a few minutes away on U.S. 93 at the border between Nevada and Arizona.

Often referred to by locals by its original name, Boulder Dam, the massive art deco inspired dam was completed in 1935 as both the world’s largest electric-power generating station and the world’s largest concrete structure. Though neither record holds true today, the dam is still considered one of the world’s greatest engineering marvels.

The U.S. Bureau of Reclamation has conducted tours through Hoover Dam and its powerplant since 1937. Today, nearly one million visitors a year take the tour and millions more drive across the dam.

View of Hoover Dam

Guided tours are offered every day of the week with admission prices ranging from $11.00 to $30.00 per person with discounted prices for children, seniors and military families. The Visitor Center is open for unguided exploration for $8.00 for all visitors over the age of three.

Visitors not interested in a tour are welcome to walk along the top of the dam and enjoy the magnificent view of Lake Mead and Black Canyon. Visitors, particularly children, are often amused at the fact that the men’s restroom is located in Nevada in the Pacific Time Zone and the women’s restroom is located on the Arizona side in the Mountain Time Zone. It’s not often that you have an opportunity to visit two states and two time zones at one attraction.

Visitors to Hoover Dam may park in the parking garage nestled in the cliffs on the Nevada side of the dam. The fee is $7.00 per vehicle. Free parking is available in lots along the road on the Arizona side, but the spots may be hard to find on busy weekends and the walk up and down the steep hills may be grueling during the hot summer months. However, a small cafe is located at the top of the hill providing snacks, refreshments and a spectacular view.

Within Boulder City the state’s railroading past is showcased at the Nevada Southern Railroad Museum. Constructed in 1931 as a branch off the main Union Pacific tracks through Las Vegas, the railroad transported heavy equipment and supplies for the construction of Hoover Dam. Today, train rides along the historic tracks are a popular attraction.

February through December the train takes passengers on a 45-minute, seven mile journey along the revitalized historic Boulder Branch Line from the Boulder City Depot (off Yucca Street) to Railroad Pass, located within the River Mountain Range.

Passengers ride in refurbished and enclosed, climate-controlled Pullman Coaches, which date back to 1911. For the more adventurous passengers who wish to be closer to nature the open-air coach is great for taking photos of the desert mountain landscape.

Trains depart from the Depot every Saturday and Sunday at 10:00 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1:00 p.m., and 2:30 p.m. Boarding begins 15 minutes prior to departure times and reservations are not required. Fares are $8.00 for adults, $7.00 for seniors and $4.00 for children under the age of 11.

Zipwire over Bootleg Canyon

For the outdoor sports enthusiasts, Boulder City’s Bootleg Canyon Park, known for its mountain biking trails, is now home to one of the city’s newest tourist attractions, the Bootleg Canyon Flightlines. There visitors who aren’t afraid of heights can experience an adrenaline rush as they glide down ziplines strung high above the canyon.

Bootleg Canyon has five zipline runs, including a practice run. From the top, riders drop nearly 1,000 feet along four runs, including one that’s nearly a half mile long.

The cost for this exhilarating adventure is $149 per person. The minimum weight for riders is 75 lbs. and the maximum is 250 lbs. Check-in is at the 1512 Industrial Road in Boulder City where riders are provided their harness and trained in safety, basic gliding techniques as well as how to increase and decrease speed.

For visitors interested in a more relaxing time, downtown Boulder City’s shops, galleries and restaurants are inviting. For great food, stop by The Coffee Cup, a favorite of locals and tourists alike. You can also grab some food to go and enjoy an outdoor family picnic at Hemenway or Bicentennial Park.

However you chose to enjoy your visit to Boulder City, you’ll find away to be “a world away for a day.”

Hoover Dam photo by Pamela McCreight (Creative Commons)/Boulder City and Bootleg Canyon photos by Boulder City.