Sequim, Washington and The Dungeness Spit

When we drive west from Idaho, we’re usually heading toward the Seattle area to visit friends and family.  But for restful family vacations, we drive just a little further west to Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.  It’s an amazingly diverse place, and we never know what we’re going to find when we go there to explore.

A lavender farm in Sequim, Washington

A lavender farm in Sequim, Washington

Last summer we spent a day in the area around the town of Sequim (that’s pronounced “skwim”) on the northern shore of the Peninsula. Our first stop was at a lavender farm.  Sequim bills itself as the lavender capital of North America, which explains why there is lavender everywhere you look.  Each July the town holds a 3-day Lavender Festival to celebrate the fragrant purple flowers.  Any time of the year, you can find all things lavender at dozens of farms and shops throughout town.  Take a chance and sample some lavender ice cream.  It leaves an interesting aftertaste.  We spent about an hour strolling the beautiful grounds of the Purple Haze Lavender Farm.  There’s no charge to just wander around admiring the flowers and the view.  There’s a gift shop, stocked with all things lavender, as well as a quaint farm house available as a vacation rental

Five miles of sand and driftwood

Five miles of sand and driftwood

The kids were restless, so we moved on to what turned out to be the great surprise of the day.  We found it at The Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge just outside of Sequim.  The main geographic feature of the Refuge is the Dungeness Spit, the longest natural sand spit in the country.  Quite honestly, I wasn’t expecting much at the Spit.  A lot of sand, to be sure. But the simplicity of the place is what charmed us. The Spit is five miles of sand and driftwood, with ocean on either side. It was absolutely mesmerizing.

I’ve never seen my kids happier than when they gazed out over all that driftwood and began mentally designing tri-level forts and castles. The sand and the ocean were a blur to them. All they cared about was building stuff.  There is no shortage of material to work with, and there is certainly no shortage of sunshine on the northern coast of the peninsula.  The dry climate of Sequim (only 15 inches of rain a year) almost guarantees that rain won’t ruin your family vacation.

Zen rocks at the Dungeness Spit

Zen rocks at the Dungeness Spit

This is the kind of outing where you don’t need to bring anything but a few chairs, towels, and snacks.  If you’re not in the mood to build driftwood forts, you can take off your shoes and enjoy a leisurely barefoot stroll down the beach.  Or sit and stack rocks (talk about a stress reducer).

It’s surprising finds like Sequim and the Spit that is making my family fall in love with the Olympic Peninsula of Washington. It’s one of the most diverse, and least crowded, areas I’ve ever visited. It’s easily accessible from Seattle by ferry, the roads are good, the distances not too far, and the scenery is some of the most spectacular in the country.  You can hike on a glacier, stroll through a rain forest, and then enjoy a driftwood fire on a spectacular ocean beach, all in one day.

Most of all, the Peninsula reminds me that the simple things are sometimes the best. Children certainly don’t need a lot of bells and whistles to have fun on vacation. A simple walk on the beach can spur imagination and creativity like nothing else. That’s what will keep us returning to places like the Dungeness Spit.

Strolling along the spit.

Strolling along the spit.

Building a driftwood fort on the Dungeness Spit

Building a driftwood fort on the Dungeness Spit

All photos by Phil Corless

Holidays of the Gilded Age in Newport, Rhode Island

The Marble House

Marble House

Peak tourist season in Newport, Rhode Island is summer.  Founded on Aquidneck Island in 1639, Newport was one of the first major seaports in the colonies, was significant in whaling and the slave trade, and was one of the first popular getaway locations for wealthy American families when the rich first became richer in the 1870s.  Newport is also a major naval base, frequent host of the America’s Cup regatta, location of the International Tennis Hall of Fame (the U.S. Open was first played here in 1895), home to annual jazz and folk festivals, and the summer residence of two presidents.  In short, Newport is where money meets the sea.

The Breakers Library

The Breakers Library

Being a summer resort doesn’t mean that Newport isn’t a popular destination other times of the year. Year-round, tourists come by land and sea to sightsee, shop, dine and relax.  Christmastime, in fact, is probably the second busiest time of the year.  It’s then that tourists can see holiday decorations in the mansions built here by America’s very rich—families with names such as Vanderbilt and Astor—in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.  Nine of those mansions are operated by The Preservation Society of Newport County.  Three of these—The Breakers, The Elms and Marble House—are especially decked out for the holidays.  Inside are hundreds of ornaments on dozens of trees, thousands of poinsettias, fresh flowers and wreaths, dining tables set with period silver and china, and mannequins in period holiday dress. Another mansion, The Astors’ Beechwood, is not only decorated but populated with actors portraying the Astor family and their servants.  Visitors can tour the home as these characters prepare for Christmas, sing carols, and entertain in the grand ballroom.  Guests can even dine with the family at Beechwood’s Victorian Christmas Feast featuring a multi-course period meal.

The Elms Foyer

The Elms Foyer

The Preservation Society’s Breakers, Elms and Marble House are decorated and open daily for tours from November 15 through January 4 except for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.  A Winter Passport ticket providing daytime admission to all three houses can be purchased for $25 for adults and $9 for children ages 6 to 17. Purchased separately, admission to The Breakers is $16.50 for adults and $4 for children ages 6 to 17. Marble House and The Elms are each $11 for adults and $4 for children 6 to 17. Information on additional ticket packages and special holiday events such as visits with Santa Claus on Sundays in December (at no extra charge), holiday concerts and refreshments, and a holiday dinner dance are available at the Preservation Society website.

At Beechwood, a schedule of holiday tours and events is available at the Beechwood Web site.  Standard tour admission is $20 for adults and $8 for children ages 6 to 17. A family rate of $50 is available for two adults and up to four children. Reservations are strongly suggested. Tickets for the Victorian Christmas Feast are $125 for all seatings and reservations are required.

For travelers planning to visit Newport, dozens of choices exist for accommodations and even more for dining.  A couple favorite restaurants of my family are the Red Parrot and the dockside Candy Store at the Clarke Cooke House which my wife and I (and our waitress) agreed makes the best hot fudge anywhere.

All photos courtesy of The Preservation Society of Newport County. The Breakers Library and The Elms Foyer photos by John Corbett.

Torpedo Factory Art Center – Alexandria, Virginia

When the weather gets bad and the days get gray I start to look for indoor activities that involve more than eating pizza with an oversized mouse. The Torpedo Factory Art Center in Alexandria, Virginia is a favorite stop.

The name Torpedo Factory is not the least bit misleading. This waterfront complex was once a working torpedo factory. Documenting its past use, there is a torpedo on display in the front lobby. After serving its time producing munitions it was abandoned and later reclaimed as a working art space for local artists. It now contains 82 artist studios, 6 galleries, two workshops, and if that wasn’t enough, it also houses the Alexandria Archeology Museum.

Many different types of fine arts and crafts are represented here. Traditional Chinese brushwork is just a short walk from modern sculpture. Oil paintings find a place by stained glass and pottery. It’s a wonderful place to introduce children to the many forms of art without the stuffiness of museums and the pressure of museum guards looking over your shoulder making sure you don’t touch the horse paintings.

It is not uncommon to find artists busy at work in their studios and they are often willing to answer questions and give impromptu demonstrations of their art. My daughter was especially fascinated with a demonstration of weaving copper wire on a loom into metal fabric.

You can pack a lunch and eat out by the waterfront or stop and pick up a bite at any of the many downtown restaurants. The noodle soup at vegan and kid-friendly Bumblefish is inexpensive and tasty on a cold day.

There is no charge to visit the Torpedo Factory Art Center but finding on-street parking might be a challenge and is usually limited to two hours, so you should be sure to have cash for the parking garage.

Don’t forget to check out the sculpture stairs and be sure to weigh the entire family on the industrial scale by the front door on the way out.

Photo Credits: Photo from the Torpedo Factory Art Center website

A Colonial Christmas in Williamsburg, Virginia

‘Tis the season for holiday decorations. From the most outrageous light displays to the basic red bows and candles I look forward to seeing them all. We’ll pack the kids in the car and drive for hours visiting all the homemade displays in our area. The creativity, or maybe OCD, on display during this time of year can’t be matched. I wouldn’t want to miss any of it. If there wasn’t YouTube, what other time of the year would we get to see a light display that flashes in time with Christmas techno music?

To the other extreme, there are many displays that take a much more organic approach to the holidays. The best example of this may be at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia. Along with Jamestown and Yorktown, Colonial Williamsburg is one of three locations in the historic triangle that attempts to preserve the past by living in it. While not a true representation of a Colonial Era Christmas, Williamsburg offers a beautiful and unique display of natural decorations that are sure to catch your eye.

Williamsburg offers many seasonal programs that will capture the attention of every member of the family. You can take in a musical performance designed for children, dine with George Washington, or enjoy a candlelit ghost tour.You can get more information on these and other events in the Holiday Planner.

At $37 for adults and $18 for children over six, general admission to Colonial Williamsburg can be a bit steep for a family visit. However, many local hotels offer reduced rates passes and there are many vacations packages to choose from.

Photo Credits: Restroom sign photo from the public domain. Wreath photo derived from original photo by Tonamel

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